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Old 31-Oct-2012, 4:08 PM   #1
PeteyMcp
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Cable Routing

I'm not sure this is the right place for this, but I'll try.

I'm going to install an antenna on the second floor eave to get the best potential reception. I need to then route the cable to the basement to pick up the existing distribution. Any thoughts on the easiest way to do that? There is a possibility that I can pull cable through a chase to the basement, but I'll have to most likely use an existing CAT-5 cable to pull a pull string through and then pull both cable back with the pull string. This is by no means a straight run, and I'm worried that I'll either lose the CAT-5 cable along the way, or that the CAT-5 cable is stapled and I won't be able to pull it. I've tugged on it a bit and it seems pretty solidly in place.

I'm thinking the best bet may be to drill into the attic, route the cable through the attic and then down the roof line to the soffit vent on the side of my house. If I drill through the soffit, I'll be in line with the existing power and cable lines coming into my house, they're run exposed from the roof line to the basement, so it's already pretty ugly over there. Once I run down the side of the house, I'll be at basement level and will just need to drill into the basement. Does that make sense?

Any other ideas for routing, or maybe products that might make the transition from exterior to interior easier, neater, or more weatherproof?

Brian
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Old 31-Oct-2012, 6:09 PM   #2
signals unlimited
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Your signal profile, and antenna choice will be needed to caculate cable length, amplifier requirment, grounding, and splitter configuration.

If all equipment choices good, the atic run will be better than blindly pulling on your cat-5
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Old 31-Oct-2012, 6:59 PM   #3
teleview
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Here is the rest of the thread that provides information.

http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=12715.
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Old 1-Nov-2012, 8:37 AM   #4
Stereocraig
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Sometimes, it's good to have a helper, so you can work the cable back and forth. If using the CAT5, be sure to tape over the RJ45, so its squared edges don't snag on something.
Be equally careful, when removing the tape.
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Old 1-Nov-2012, 12:19 PM   #5
PeteyMcp
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Thanks for the feedback, hopefully I'm not breaking rules with the two separate posts. I figured this wasn't directly related and since I'm sure I'm not the only person that has had problems figuring this out, I'd separate the two.

I'm going to get up into the attic to see what sort of play I have with the Cat-5 on that end to see if I can go that route.

To answer the length question, it's probably about 30 feet either way to the basement splitter. From there it depends on which TV. I only have 2, of which 1 we don't really use, so I might just eliminate the splitter, which would mean about 50 feet or so total from the antenna to the TV.
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Old 1-Nov-2012, 6:13 PM   #6
GroundUrMast
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No worries, you're not breaking any rules.

As far as using the CAT-V for a pull string, if it doesn't pull easily, it's stapled or snagged. Pulling harder is going to damage it. You mention the existing run is not straight, that begs for snagging and damaging both the CAT-V and any other cable you might try to pull back in.

Is there a closet you could run through?
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Old 2-Nov-2012, 12:27 AM   #7
phone man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteyMcp View Post
I'm worried that I'll either lose the CAT-5 cable along the way, or that the CAT-5 cable is stapled and I won't be able to pull it. I've tugged on it a bit and it seems pretty solidly in place.

I'm thinking the best bet may be to drill into the attic, route the cable through the attic and then down the roof line to the soffit vent on the side of my house. If I drill through the soffit, I'll be in line with the existing power and cable lines coming into my house, they're run exposed from the roof line to the basement, so it's already pretty ugly over there. Once I run down the side of the house, I'll be at basement level and will just need to drill into the basement. Does that make sense?

Any other ideas for routing, or maybe products that might make the transition from exterior to interior easier, neater, or more weatherproof?

Brian
Odds are the CAT5 is fastened down. I fish walls for phone wiring at times. Sometimes a plumbing vent or ductwork may provide a path between floors.
A long string weighted with eight to ten inches of furnace chain makes a real good tool for dropping thru wall cavities. The chain makes enough noise to tell you where the bottom of the cavity is.
The plan you described above sounds good and is often the only way to get from A to B when you can't use interior walls. If you have vinyl siding or soffits, you can usually tuck the wiring in the J channel and hide most of it.
Good Luck!
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Old 2-Nov-2012, 2:31 AM   #8
teleview
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If the chase is a wood chase like inside walls and etc. , can make access doors at problem locations.

Steal fish tape is a way to go along through a chase , keep wiggling and working the fish tape through.

HVAC ducting is a way to get coax and communications wiring from point A to point B.

Also can drill one floor to next floor in , closets , pantries , and etc.

I have used a high output leaf blower to blow a styrofoam ball with a string through a chase.
Connect the leaf blower output to the chase with , card board / duct tape / ect.

Make hole in the card board or duct tape , etc. so can feed string in and pull back on the string if required until the styrofoam ball and string goes through the chase.
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Old 24-Nov-2012, 4:29 PM   #9
PeteyMcp
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Thanks for all the input, I think I'm going to move the location of the antenna and keep the cable outside, I think it will make life a lot easier. It won't look great, but with all the utilities in that area, it doesn't really matter.

Next hurdle, mounting the mast. I was going to use an eave mount, but now that won't work. If I mount this against the siding (clapboard), I assume I have to find some framing to put the lag screws into, correct? Any tips on how to locate and mount to these? Or can I just mount it to trim board (possibility), or straight to the clapboard, through the sheathing?
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Old 24-Nov-2012, 5:20 PM   #10
teleview
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You are aware that your location has Digital Broadcast Tv stations/channels to the , North , North West , South West , South , North East.

If the ANT751 is installed down on the side of the house then the house will block reception.

It is best to install the ANT751 at a location that the roof or house will not block reception , North , North West , South West , South , North East.

As always , trees and tree leaves do a real fine job of reducing and blocking reception and so do buildings and other obstructions , including your own house.

It is best to install the antenna at a location that has the least amount to no amount of obstructions of any type or kind in the directions of reception including your own house.


Aim the ANT751 at about 360 degree magnetic compass direction.

Here is how to aim antennas , http://www.kyes.com/antenna/pointing/pointing.html.

http://www.solidsignal.com , has - wall mount brackets - that hold the mast pipe away from the wall so the mast pipe will clear roof over hang and the mast pipe can extend up to get the antenna up so the antenna can receive different directions.

Also in the solidsignal search box type , antenna mounts.
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Old 25-Nov-2012, 8:30 PM   #11
PeteyMcp
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Sorry, i should clarify. I'm going to mount the mast just under the roof edge and extend it up past the roof, that side of the roof has a shallow pitch, so the antenna will clear the roof ridge. I think one of the Ronard Y or W mounts should work, i just want to make sure this thing stays on the side of the house.
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Old 25-Nov-2012, 10:36 PM   #12
Stereocraig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteyMcp View Post
Sorry, i should clarify. I'm going to mount the mast just under the roof edge and extend it up past the roof, that side of the roof has a shallow pitch, so the antenna will clear the roof ridge. I think one of the Ronard Y or W mounts should work, i just want to make sure this thing stays on the side of the house.
Try to find brackets that have the same centers as your studs. Find your studs w/ a stud finder, or a small trim nail below the strip of siding. If this is not possible, run a few 4' lengths of 2X4 over where the lag bolts come through the wall. Glue them to the inside and go outside and drill the size pilot holes that are recommended for the size lag bolts you purchased.
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