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10-Jun-2016, 12:12 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 65
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Eagle Aspen ROTR100 / Juice preamp question
Would the Eagle Aspen ROTR100 http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=rotr100
be compatible with the Antennas Direct Juice preamp for a single coax feed?
Also does this limit signal to any substantial degree?
Last edited by Blackbeen; 10-Jun-2016 at 12:14 AM.
Reason: Adding
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10-Jun-2016, 9:05 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 472
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It mentions the optional ability to drive a preamp.
It also mentions 1db insertion loss each for the motor and the controller.
2 db doesn't seem like much, until you need an extra 1 db.
It maybe OK for some, but I have always believed in keeping components as isolated as possible.
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10-Jun-2016, 10:31 AM
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#3
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Antennas Direct Tech Supp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,942
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The ROTR100 has been out of production for several years and is unavailable unless you can find one on eBay or buried somewhere.
The ROTR100's capability to supply power to a preamp via the 1-wire scheme was limited to preamps that would run off ~17 volts DC at < 80 mA. Our PA18 met those qualifications but I could never get a single ROTR100 from half a dozen samples to actually work correctly in that mode. Neither the Juice nor its predecessor, the CPA19, would have any chance to function in this mode as both have much higher current requirements (110-130 mA typically).
Quote:
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Also does this limit signal to any substantial degree?
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No. The insertion loss is AFTER the preamp so whatever loss there is simply comes off whatever gain the amp had provided, just as if you'd had a longer coax run or a splitter inserted.
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10-Jun-2016, 3:14 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 472
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADTech
No. The insertion loss is AFTER the preamp so whatever loss there is simply comes off whatever gain the amp had provided, just as if you'd had a longer coax run or a splitter inserted.
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If a preamp is used.
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10-Jun-2016, 5:33 PM
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#5
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Antennas Direct Tech Supp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereocraig
If a preamp is used.
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Which is the specific subject of this thread.
In any event, the only thing in the signal path in either unit is a small value capacitor that passes the RF signals but blocks DC. There's not much you can do about it if you're not using an amp but to accept that you'll have a bit more insertion loss, exactly the same as if you'd had a longer coax or some other attenuation etc with or without an amp. You STILL have to do your homework and the math to calculate the insertion loss either way for any situation where you're working close to the reception noise floor. If you're in a strong signal area, it doesn't matter as there's enough signal margin to tolerate the small amount of additional loss.
I tested the IL for the ROTR100 a few years ago but haven't revisited that subject since. Since the product is pretty much dead or not available, it's a moot point as I see it.
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10-Jun-2016, 9:08 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADTech
Which is the specific subject of this thread.
In any event, the only thing in the signal path in either unit is a small value capacitor that passes the RF signals but blocks DC. There's not much you can do about it if you're not using an amp but to accept that you'll have a bit more insertion loss, exactly the same as if you'd had a longer coax or some other attenuation etc with or without an amp. You STILL have to do your homework and the math to calculate the insertion loss either way for any situation where you're working close to the reception noise floor. If you're in a strong signal area, it doesn't matter as there's enough signal margin to tolerate the small amount of additional loss.
I tested the IL for the ROTR100 a few years ago but haven't revisited that subject since. Since the product is pretty much dead or not available, it's a moot point as I see it.
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It's not a moot point as I still have the roter in full working order atop my Apt building that I would really like to use when I move to my new house in the next month. Unfortunately I figured this might be the case regarding the single cable usage but it would be a major advantage if I could keep this to a single cable with the way the home is wired as I could simply tap the cable TV connection into the house without having to bore another hole in the brick wall, I would even consider not using a preamp as the cable run isn't massively long atop a 1 1/2 story building on a chimney mount assuming running everything through one cable would severely limit signal.
Last edited by Blackbeen; 10-Jun-2016 at 9:10 PM.
Reason: typo
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10-Jun-2016, 10:16 PM
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#7
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Antennas Direct Tech Supp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,942
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You'll have to pick from the following options since you have one already:
1. Run with no amp and see what happens.
2. Run a second cable.
3. Try and find an old amp that actually works with your rotor and still works in the new location without causing new issues of its own.
Good luck!
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11-Jun-2016, 1:04 PM
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#8
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Retired A/V Tech
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: S.E. VA
Posts: 2,753
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbeen
I could simply tap the cable TV connection into the house without having to bore another hole in the brick wall
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You aren't planning to combine antenna signals and cable signals on the same coax, are you?
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17-Jun-2016, 7:02 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73
You aren't planning to combine antenna signals and cable signals on the same coax, are you?
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Nope, I'm not paying for cable I'm just using the wiring.
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17-Jun-2016, 7:15 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 65
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I'm thinking about using a wall mount over chimmy given the location of the line into the house are ROHN worth the extra cost over other brands? What are height limitations for this sort of mount? Would any of the telescoping masts work?
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18-Jun-2016, 2:12 PM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73
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Due to eastbound tree blockage I think I'm going to go for a chimney mount, 5' fixed +10' stub-mast, have a tripod I could use but I hate to put holes in the roof.
Last edited by Blackbeen; 18-Jun-2016 at 2:22 PM.
Reason: typo
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18-Jun-2016, 10:41 PM
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#13
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Retired A/V Tech
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: S.E. VA
Posts: 2,753
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Beautiful photo; thanks!
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10-Jul-2016, 8:30 AM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73
Beautiful photo; thanks!
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You're welcome, could you possibly recommend a good strap chimney mount? I'm kinda confused by the long strap lenght (of 12' & 18') generally available, as you can tell this chimney is pretty small, perhaps a 5' circumference can the straps be adjusted to fit?
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