If I were starting from scratch, I would point an Antennacraft Y10713 at real channel 11, KTWU... mounting as high as I could safely afford. I would even consider a stacked pair of Y10713's,
http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=1024 using 450Ω twin lead as the tuned combiner (try cutting the twin-lead for CH-12 as a compromise between 11 & 13). The CPA-19 is a good, low noise amplifier, resistant to overload. This antenna (or stacked pair) would be dedicated to real CH 11 & 13.
I would go after the UHF signals with an Antennas Direct 91XG. You could opt to rotate it if you like. A dedicated CPA-19 would be best.
The output of the two amplifiers can be combined into a single coax using a UVSJ (UHF / VHF signal joiner).
Re. Grounding:
My stock answer is, Grounding the mast and coax shield are prudent and relatively inexpensive steps that limit the buildup of static-electricity which can damage the tuner. When done correctly, grounding can also reduce the risk caused by a nearby lighting strike.
http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901
Grounding in a basic system is a two step process:
1) Connect a #10 gauge copper wire to the antenna mast. A bronze ground clamp such as the Halex #36020 is well suited for this application. Run the wire directly to the electrical service ground. Avoid sharp bends in the wire. (If the ground wire between the service panel and ground rod is accessible, an
Intersystem Bonding Termination devise can be placed onto the ground wire without cutting or disconnecting it. This provides a means to connect the #10 mast ground wire to the existing ground wire close to the ground rod outside the building. If possible, avoid running the new ground wire inside the building, energy from static or electrical storms is best directed to ground before it has any path into the building. The mast ground wire can be bare or insulated, your choice.)
2) Run the coax from the antenna to a location close to the electrical service ground. Install a
ground block and with another peice of #10 wire, connect it to the electrical service ground at the same point you connected the mast ground.
I don't recommend short-cuts such as driving a new ground rod that is not connected to the existing electrical service ground. An isolated ground rod often has a high resistance that provides very limited ground connection. The goal is to connect to the same ground system that protects the rest of the home.
Surge protectors located inside outlet strips at the TV, computer or similar devises are worth consideration. A surge protector with a high joule rating is able to absorb more fault energy than a unit with a lower joule rating. Some surge protection units include phone jacks and F-connectors to enable protection of a phone line, coax cable and the power cable(s).
However, in the case of an outdoor mounted antenna, this type of protection should not be considered a 'first-line of defense'.
