TV Fool  

Go Back   TV Fool > Over The Air Services > Help With Reception

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 23-Sep-2011, 12:15 AM   #21
mtehonica
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
Thanks for the advice on the reflector bars on the u4000, John. Just got it today from SolidSignal, which has super fast shipping by the way! Not quite sure what you mean by "lift the clip and turn the reflector bars" but I'll try to figure it out. I temporarily mounted the u4000 in the back yard on a pole and sawhorse until this weekend and it already works really well! Can't wait to get it another 15 feet in the air and hook up the cpa19!
mtehonica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 12:37 AM   #22
mtehonica
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
Could someone (probably GroundUrMast) explain the proper way of grounding my antenna/mast?
mtehonica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 1:00 AM   #23
inspector
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
To ground an antenna. Take and drill a hole on the holding mast as best or us a clamp. A grounding wire has to ground. The best source for that is the ground (dirt). strip the casing from the wire and bury the exposed wire into the ground for the easiest way. The proper way would be to expose wire and then attach to a grounding rod and drive it into the ground. Pick a spot such in your case being at the house, under a down spout area as moisture helps with the grounding capabilities.
inspector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 1:13 AM   #24
GroundUrMast
Moderator
 
GroundUrMast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Greater Seattle Area
Posts: 4,773
Thanks,

Ideally you would connect a #10 ga. copper wire (larger diameter wire is fine) to the mast. Home improvement stores carry a variety of electrical ground clamps that would serve the purpose. The other end of the ground wire would connect to the electrical service ground. Ideally, the wire would be as short as practical and run outside the building structure. Sharp bends should be avoided.

The coax shield should be grounded before entering the building. The preferred method would be to run the coax from the antenna down to a location close to the electrical service ground. There, install a coax ground block, and run a short length of #10 ga, copper wire to the electrical service ground.

If you elect to add a ground rod for what ever reason, it needs to be connected to the existing electrical service ground system with a #6 ga. copper wire (or larger diameter).

http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901
__________________
If the well is dry and you don't see rain on the horizon, you'll need to dig the hole deeper. (If the antenna can't get the job done, an amp won't fix it.)

(Please direct account activation inquiries to 'admin')

Last edited by GroundUrMast; 23-Sep-2011 at 1:18 AM.
GroundUrMast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 5:33 PM   #25
mtehonica
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
Thanks for the info GroundUrMast. Another question.... would the grounding change at all if the antenna was mounted to a 2x4? I have an 18" chimney on my roof which I'm going to attach a 2x4 to and mount http://www.amazon.com/Antennas-Direc...d_bxgy_e_img_b on the 2x4 to attach the antenna.

Would I still need it grounded since it's mounting to wood?
mtehonica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 5:44 PM   #26
GroundUrMast
Moderator
 
GroundUrMast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Greater Seattle Area
Posts: 4,773
I would go to the effort of grounding the J pole. The design of most antennas and matching transformers isolate the frame of the antenna from the shield of the coax.
__________________
If the well is dry and you don't see rain on the horizon, you'll need to dig the hole deeper. (If the antenna can't get the job done, an amp won't fix it.)

(Please direct account activation inquiries to 'admin')

Last edited by GroundUrMast; 23-Sep-2011 at 5:47 PM.
GroundUrMast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 5:48 PM   #27
mtehonica
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by GroundUrMast View Post
I would go to the effort of grounding the J pole.
Thanks. Another question (I know, I'm a noob, haha).... If I have the main down feed from the antenna coming into my basement directly to a splitter and that splitter is grounded, would that satisfy my grounding requirement?
mtehonica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 6:11 PM   #28
GroundUrMast
Moderator
 
GroundUrMast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Greater Seattle Area
Posts: 4,773
Splitters often include a grounding lug which serves the purpose just as well as a 'grounding block'.

Ideally there would be no more than 5 feet of coax between the splitter and entry point through the wall. I choose to keep all of the grounding system outside the building when possible. (Some older homes have no ground rod(s) and simply rely on water supply pipe for 'earth ground' in which case there may be no better choice than to connect to the pipe at the same point where the electrical service makes it's ground connection.)
__________________
If the well is dry and you don't see rain on the horizon, you'll need to dig the hole deeper. (If the antenna can't get the job done, an amp won't fix it.)

(Please direct account activation inquiries to 'admin')

Last edited by GroundUrMast; 23-Sep-2011 at 7:41 PM.
GroundUrMast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 6:12 PM   #29
mtehonica
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by GroundUrMast View Post
Ideally there would be no more than 5 feet of coax between the splitter and entry point through the wall.
Yeeeaaahhhh.... haha, probably going to be about 50'-75' from the antenna to the splitter.
mtehonica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 23-Sep-2011, 6:36 PM   #30
inspector
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5
Lightning Rod

Your antenna being the highest point of the house will now be the attachment of lightning. You still may want to ground it for the safety of your house. If you do not give the lightning a path to ground its self, it will use what ever it can find. This will usually result with a fire and blown out dry wall. I have attached a e how blurt as to why and how you may still want to ground.
http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4588127...ect-house.html
inspector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-Sep-2011, 1:29 PM   #31
mtehonica
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 19
Thanks for all the help guys. Got the antenna mounted up this weekend. It ended up being about 20' in the air. Now I just have to work on the grounding (which I know should have been done before it even got mounted). Can someone point me to some links with exactly what I would need? I'm not sure what type of grounding block/static discharge block, etc.

Here are a few pics of the setup...

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/36/img3605z.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/3/img3606pj.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/img3607z.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/62/img3608ht.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/26/img3610fz.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/155/img3611kl.jpg/
mtehonica is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-Sep-2011, 3:37 PM   #32
GroundUrMast
Moderator
 
GroundUrMast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Greater Seattle Area
Posts: 4,773
A Grounding clamp - pipe can be used to make a solid connection to an antenna mast. Some people just add a washer under one of the bolts that hold the mast mounting bracket and then use the bolt to clamp the ground wire to the mast and bracket assembly. Be sure that the ground wire makes metal to metal contact (not wire to paint).

A Split-bolt is used to connect ground wire to existing heavy gauge wire such as the cable from your service panel to the ground rod.

A Ground rod clamp is useful if you are going to connect ground wire directly to a ground rod.

A Coax ground block is a simple way to make a grounding connection to the coax shield.

As you see, most or all of these parts are normal stock items at the home improvement stores. I didn't spend much time looking for the single coax block on the Home Depot web site, but I found dual blocks (for satellite and multiple antenna installs). I'm fairly certain they carry both styles.

The #10 wire is available by the foot, bare or with insulation. Home Depot also stocks Scotch brand #2228 Moisture Sealing Electrical tape, useful for sealing coax connectors from the elements.
__________________
If the well is dry and you don't see rain on the horizon, you'll need to dig the hole deeper. (If the antenna can't get the job done, an amp won't fix it.)

(Please direct account activation inquiries to 'admin')

Last edited by GroundUrMast; 27-Sep-2011 at 3:42 PM.
GroundUrMast is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Go Back   TV Fool > Over The Air Services > Help With Reception



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 7:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © TV Fool, LLC