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21-Jul-2010, 7:42 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Encinitas, CA, USA
Posts: 4
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Seeking antenna advice in Encinitas, CA
I got rid of Cox cable a couple months ago and am just starting to look into OTA reception. I'm a complete antenna newbie and would welcome advice on what to get. Was interested in the Antennas Direct ClearStream4 but am afraid it won't pick up the VHF stations ABC (10.1) and CBS (8.1). Other stations I'm interested in are PBS, FOX, NBC, and perhaps CW--all UHF. I can mount an outdoor antenna on the roof of my two-story house. Would prefer something not too large.
TIA,
Douglas
http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...9fbe80e75ea2e3
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21-Jul-2010, 8:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: King George, VA
Posts: 659
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Two choices come to mind: Winegard HD7695P or AntennaCraft HBU-44.
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21-Jul-2010, 8:21 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Encinitas, CA, USA
Posts: 4
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Thanks, Dave, for your recommendations.
The AntennaCraft may be a bit overkill for my situation, which requires just a 30-mile range. It looks awfully big; is it? As for the Winegard, would you recommend the one model down, HD7694P? What about the lesser AntennaCraft models, HBU-22 or HBU-33?
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21-Jul-2010, 11:51 PM
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#4
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onlineaddy
The AntennaCraft may be a bit overkill for my situation, which requires just a 30-mile range. It looks awfully big; is it?
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I never put much stock in the mile range specs on antennas. The true range of an antenna depends on the transmitter power and what lies between you and the transmitter (is it clear line-of-sight? is there terrain blockage? tall buildings? trees?).
In your case, most of the transmitters are showing "1Edge" or "2Edge" (single and double edge diffraction) which means the signals are NOT able to reach you directly. You can expect the signal power to fall off differently than normal, so the mileage rating of the antenna does not apply here.
These kinds of antennas can range from a few feet across to over 14 feet long, so some people do get taken aback a bit when they see how large these things are up-close when they assemble them. However, I've also found that once these antennas are installed on the roof and viewed from far away, they no longer seem so disproportionately large. In most cases, after a while, people get used to the antenna's presence and almost forget that it is there (my wife didn't even really notice until I pointed it out to her).
I would first focus on how much antenna you need to get the channels you want. I wouldn't try to go with an under-powered antenna just to reduce the antenna size by 20%. You will have a much better viewing experience if you get an appropriately sized antenna for your situation (and this is where tvfool comes in real handy). After you enjoy a few months of free crystal clear digital TV, the antenna aesthetics may not seem like such a big deal.
When you tell your neighbors how much money you're saving, they will probably want to do the same.
Quote:
As for the Winegard, would you recommend the one model down, HD7694P? What about the lesser AntennaCraft models, HBU-22 or HBU-33?
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The next step down would probably still work fine. Less antenna means that you'll have less margin to deal with things like stormy weather, seasonal changes, and other things that might cause your signal to fluctuate. The larger antennas will provide a bigger buffer for these kinds of things, so you're less likely to see things like pixellation or drop-outs.
Also, FYI, the HBU-33 is roughly equivalent to the HD7694P in terms of performance (even though the HD7694P is shorter than the HBU-33). The HBU-22 is even another step down from that and Winegard does not make a version of their antenna that goes down that far.
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22-Jul-2010, 3:47 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Encinitas, CA, USA
Posts: 4
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Thanks for taking the time to respond at length, mtownsend. I appreciate it.
The UHF channels I'm interested in all have transmitters showing "1Edge", with the exception of CW. Hopefully, signal dropoff isn't too bad.
Since I plan to install the antenna on my roof deck, I'd prefer not to have a monstrosity of an obstruction to my views. On the other hand, I do so enjoy crystal-clear digital images.
At this point, I'm thinking perhaps the HD7694P is a good starting point?
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22-Jul-2010, 5:44 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: King George, VA
Posts: 659
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That seems like a good choice. After reviewing your analysis again, I probably was a bit conservative, or had "2-edge" instead of "1-edge" paths in my mind for some reason.
That said, the old saw "do you want it to work, or do you want it to be pretty" still holds.
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22-Jul-2010, 5:55 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Encinitas, CA, USA
Posts: 4
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But I want both form & function!
Now, as for mounting the antenna, I already have a PVC pipe that may or may not be some sort of a vent tube coming out of the roof. I was thinking of sticking the antenna there. But, how do I clamp down on the pole to make sure that the antenna doesn't turn from the direction I'll be pointing it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Loudin
That said, the old saw "do you want it to work, or do you want it to be pretty" still holds.
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23-Jul-2010, 11:54 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 632
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My personal opinion is that the difference between an HD7694P and an HD7695P is not that significant once you have it installed on the roof. The HD7695P is roughly about the same size as the HBU33, but it has the performance of an HBU44.
As for mounts, I'd recommend adding your own mount and mast as opposed to using an existing vent pipe. I doubt that most vent pipes are designed to handle the weight and stress of an extra 5 foot pole and antenna blowing in the wind.
There are lots of mounting options available depending on how your roof/house is constructed. I usually consider mounts in the following order:
1) Chimney mount (if you have a chimney, of course). Uses steel straps around the chimney and does not require any kind of holes to be put into your roof.
2) Wall or eave mount. Goes at the side of house (mast should still extend above the roof). Bolts go into the wall or eave of your house from the side as opposed to holes going directly through any roofing material.
3) Sled mount. Only applicable if you have a flat roof. Holds the mast in place using weights instead of using bolts through the roof.
4) Tripod or other direct roof mounts. These bolt directly to the studs of your roof.
Masts usually come in 5 or 10 foot sections of pipe (about 1.25 inches diameter). It's possible to make do with almost any kind of pipe, but products specifically designed for "TV mast applications" are usually rigid (don't flex much in the wind), lightweight (to minimize stress on the mount), and can last a long time in outdoor applications.
Almost all outdoor antennas come with built-in clamps that are designed to grab on to a mast (any pipe up to about 1.5 inches in diameter). The U-bolt and bracket usually have "teeth" on them so that they can clamp on to the mast without fear of unexpected rotation in the wind.
If you go with a new mount, mast, and antenna, it should go together pretty easily and be very rugged. If done right, you shouldn't have any problems with antenna stability.
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