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Old 10-Jun-2016, 12:12 AM   #1
Blackbeen
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Eagle Aspen ROTR100 / Juice preamp question

Would the Eagle Aspen ROTR100 http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=rotr100
be compatible with the Antennas Direct Juice preamp for a single coax feed?
Also does this limit signal to any substantial degree?

Last edited by Blackbeen; 10-Jun-2016 at 12:14 AM. Reason: Adding
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Old 10-Jun-2016, 9:05 AM   #2
Stereocraig
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It mentions the optional ability to drive a preamp.
It also mentions 1db insertion loss each for the motor and the controller.
2 db doesn't seem like much, until you need an extra 1 db.

It maybe OK for some, but I have always believed in keeping components as isolated as possible.
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Old 10-Jun-2016, 10:31 AM   #3
ADTech
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Quote:
Would the Eagle Aspen ROTR100 http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=rotr100
be compatible with the Antennas Direct Juice preamp for a single coax feed?
The ROTR100 has been out of production for several years and is unavailable unless you can find one on eBay or buried somewhere.

The ROTR100's capability to supply power to a preamp via the 1-wire scheme was limited to preamps that would run off ~17 volts DC at < 80 mA. Our PA18 met those qualifications but I could never get a single ROTR100 from half a dozen samples to actually work correctly in that mode. Neither the Juice nor its predecessor, the CPA19, would have any chance to function in this mode as both have much higher current requirements (110-130 mA typically).

Quote:
Also does this limit signal to any substantial degree?
No. The insertion loss is AFTER the preamp so whatever loss there is simply comes off whatever gain the amp had provided, just as if you'd had a longer coax run or a splitter inserted.
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Old 10-Jun-2016, 3:14 PM   #4
Stereocraig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADTech View Post


No. The insertion loss is AFTER the preamp so whatever loss there is simply comes off whatever gain the amp had provided, just as if you'd had a longer coax run or a splitter inserted.
If a preamp is used.
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Old 10-Jun-2016, 5:33 PM   #5
ADTech
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stereocraig View Post
If a preamp is used.
Which is the specific subject of this thread.

In any event, the only thing in the signal path in either unit is a small value capacitor that passes the RF signals but blocks DC. There's not much you can do about it if you're not using an amp but to accept that you'll have a bit more insertion loss, exactly the same as if you'd had a longer coax or some other attenuation etc with or without an amp. You STILL have to do your homework and the math to calculate the insertion loss either way for any situation where you're working close to the reception noise floor. If you're in a strong signal area, it doesn't matter as there's enough signal margin to tolerate the small amount of additional loss.

I tested the IL for the ROTR100 a few years ago but haven't revisited that subject since. Since the product is pretty much dead or not available, it's a moot point as I see it.
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Old 10-Jun-2016, 9:08 PM   #6
Blackbeen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ADTech View Post
Which is the specific subject of this thread.

In any event, the only thing in the signal path in either unit is a small value capacitor that passes the RF signals but blocks DC. There's not much you can do about it if you're not using an amp but to accept that you'll have a bit more insertion loss, exactly the same as if you'd had a longer coax or some other attenuation etc with or without an amp. You STILL have to do your homework and the math to calculate the insertion loss either way for any situation where you're working close to the reception noise floor. If you're in a strong signal area, it doesn't matter as there's enough signal margin to tolerate the small amount of additional loss.

I tested the IL for the ROTR100 a few years ago but haven't revisited that subject since. Since the product is pretty much dead or not available, it's a moot point as I see it.
It's not a moot point as I still have the roter in full working order atop my Apt building that I would really like to use when I move to my new house in the next month. Unfortunately I figured this might be the case regarding the single cable usage but it would be a major advantage if I could keep this to a single cable with the way the home is wired as I could simply tap the cable TV connection into the house without having to bore another hole in the brick wall, I would even consider not using a preamp as the cable run isn't massively long atop a 1 1/2 story building on a chimney mount assuming running everything through one cable would severely limit signal.

Last edited by Blackbeen; 10-Jun-2016 at 9:10 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-Jun-2016, 10:16 PM   #7
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You'll have to pick from the following options since you have one already:

1. Run with no amp and see what happens.
2. Run a second cable.
3. Try and find an old amp that actually works with your rotor and still works in the new location without causing new issues of its own.

Good luck!
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Old 11-Jun-2016, 1:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbeen View Post
I could simply tap the cable TV connection into the house without having to bore another hole in the brick wall
You aren't planning to combine antenna signals and cable signals on the same coax, are you?
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Old 17-Jun-2016, 7:02 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73 View Post
You aren't planning to combine antenna signals and cable signals on the same coax, are you?
Nope, I'm not paying for cable I'm just using the wiring.
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Old 17-Jun-2016, 7:15 AM   #10
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I'm thinking about using a wall mount over chimmy given the location of the line into the house are ROHN worth the extra cost over other brands? What are height limitations for this sort of mount? Would any of the telescoping masts work?
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Old 17-Jun-2016, 8:22 PM   #11
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Rohn is a good quality brand.
http://www.3starinc.com/telescopic_masts_and_more.html

You could use mast sections with wall brackets.

Guy wires are needed if you go higher than 10 feet above the highest support point.
http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=15712&page=2
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Last edited by rabbit73; 17-Jun-2016 at 8:28 PM.
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Old 18-Jun-2016, 2:12 PM   #12
Blackbeen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rabbit73 View Post
Rohn is a good quality brand.
http://www.3starinc.com/telescopic_masts_and_more.html

You could use mast sections with wall brackets.

Guy wires are needed if you go higher than 10 feet above the highest support point.
http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=15712&page=2
Due to eastbound tree blockage I think I'm going to go for a chimney mount, 5' fixed +10' stub-mast, have a tripod I could use but I hate to put holes in the roof.
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Last edited by Blackbeen; 18-Jun-2016 at 2:22 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 18-Jun-2016, 10:41 PM   #13
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Beautiful photo; thanks!
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Old 10-Jul-2016, 8:30 AM   #14
Blackbeen
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Originally Posted by rabbit73 View Post
Beautiful photo; thanks!
You're welcome, could you possibly recommend a good strap chimney mount? I'm kinda confused by the long strap lenght (of 12' & 18') generally available, as you can tell this chimney is pretty small, perhaps a 5' circumference can the straps be adjusted to fit?
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