KMYS Real 32/Virtual 35.1 now broadcasts college and high school football games. I have Winegard HD7000R pointed to the Southeast and receives strong signals for most channels. Except for KMYS. What is the best option for receiving a strong signal for KMYS?
The antenna is 25 feet, 60' cable run to cable box. Installed a splitter at the cable box to my two TV's to use the existing cable runs.
I'm considering the Winegard LNA 200 Boost amplifier. I would appreciate suggestions on amp and/or a 2nd antenna.
Thanks for the reply. Yes. I tried that. I had read on one of the posts to do this. I picked up KMYS with a strong signal. However, the other channels lost strength and pixelate. As an FYI my Samsung TV with the current antenna direction gets 5 out 5 bars on signal strength. KMYS is 3 of 5 bars. Fades in and out. Thanks.
I'm considering the Winegard LNA 200 Boost amplifier.
A preamp would be overloaded by your very strong signals.
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I tried that. I had read on one of the posts to do this. I picked up KMYS with a strong signal. However, the other channels lost strength and pixelate. As an FYI my Samsung TV with the current antenna direction gets 5 out 5 bars on signal strength. KMYS is 3 of 5 bars. Fades in and out.
Then you will need to use your two antenna idea, with an RCA ANT751 aimed at 278 degrees magnetic for KMYS. Use an A/B switch to select which antenna you want, because two UHF antennas are not easily combined.
If I wanted to go the two antenna route how could this be done? That way I wouldn't have to use the A/B switch.
Not easily (inexpensively).
Before going much further, let's gather a bit more data.
There is a cluster of low-power stations ~7 miles to your south-southwest. Are you getting any of them now and are any of them important? If so, please list them.
Do you currently receive KCWX on channel 5? I don't know if they ever built their channel 8 translator in San Antonio, might check for that also.
Comment: The RCA751 is basically the same antenna as you have now except the low VHF capability was removed. The UHF and high-VHF specs for the HD7000R are probably very similar to the performance of the 751. There might be some other minor tweaks, but I've never seen any accurate data or measurements of either. I do have a relatively new 751R on hand which was "supposed" to have had the UHF section re-done for 14-51 instead of 14-69. My network analyzer suggests it's still resonant up past 800 MHz...
I bring that up because the forecasted power of KMYS is predicted to be such that it should easily come in on the back of the 7000R with it's modest F/B ratio of only 10.5 db and with a forward gain of 5.1 dB. With a forecasted noise margin of over 50 dB, that indicates to me the signal path is obstructed (trees/buildings, etc) and you're having to deal with strong reflected signals coming in on the front and a blocked path to the rear of the antenna. My suspicion is that the antenna's LOCATION relative to the stations and to your immediate surroundings needs investigation. Or, you could simply relocate the antenna to a spot where it has the clearest available line of sight towards the desired broadcast towers.
Based on your answers to the two questions above, there may (or not) be a simpler solution that avoids an A-B switch.
Interesting thorough analysis, ADTech. Would a C2V without reflector do it, or are the azimuths too far off the bi-directional beamwidth?
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There is a cluster of low-power stations ~7 miles to your south-southwest. Are you getting any of them now and are any of them important? If so, please list them.
There doesn't seem to be much going on in that direction.
Sometimes it is possible to combine two UHF antennas with a splitter in reverse as a combiner. This usually doesn't work because when the same signals from each antenna reach the combining point, they will interfere with each other if they are not in phase. If you think it might work, try it.
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If I wanted to go the two antenna route how could this be done? That way I wouldn't have to use the A/B switch.
The two antenna route I suggested would require an A/B switch, because it is the least expensive. There are other ways to do it that are more expensive:
1. Have the separate KMYS antenna connected to a digital tuner that is connected to an old analog TV.
2, Have the KMYS antenna connected to a separate digital TV that you would use to watch the games.
3. Connect the main antenna to the TV antenna input, and connect the KMYS antenna to a tuner that connects to an aux input of the TV. Use the TV input switch to change to the other antenna.
4. Buy a Tin Lee custom channel 32 AC7 filter (over $100) to combine the KMYS signal with the signals from the main antenna so that there would be only one downlead instead of two. Adjacent channel 31 might be a problem, but I think the Tin Lee engineer could handle that since you probably don't need 31. See attachment 2.
If you are willing to trust me or ADTech with your exact address or exact coordinates by PM, we could look at the aerial view of your location for more clues.
There might be some strong FM signals that will interfere with your TV reception, but my estimate might be off because I used your zip code. See attachment 1.
The channels I can receive from the cluster mentioned are 17, 23, 24 and 29. Channel 29 Fox is the only one that I care about. Channel 5.1 is local KENS (CBS). The location is probably adding to the low signal. There are tall trees in that direction. Some days KMYS is fairly reliable. Other days not so much.
I was hoping it would be something simple like daisy chaining two antenna’s. Point one to KMYS and connect to my existing antenna. Distance between would be roughly 6 feet.
The cluster ADTech was talking about is at 202 to 211 degrees. Doesn't look like much there for you.
He was asking about real channel 5 KCWX way down your list, not virtual channel 5.1 KENS because your widest element on your antenna can get channel 5 if it is strong enough.
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I was hoping it would be something simple like daisy chaining two antenna’s. Point one to KMYS and connect to my existing antenna. Distance between would be roughly 6 feet.
Would a combiner work in this situation?
Probably not, but you are welcome to try it. If we thought it had a good chance of working, we would have suggested it already.
This is the question you asked:
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What is the best option for receiving a strong signal for KMYS?
And that's the question we are trying to answer.
It's real simple:
KMYS is in a different direction, and that's where you must aim an antenna, especially with the tree problem.
I told you what your choices are in post #8; you now get to decide which one you are going to do.
It's really hard to tell you what to do because we can't see what your location looks like; we only know what you have told us.
It would help if you showed us a photo of the view toward the KMYS where your antenna would be aimed.
Would a C2V without reflector do it, or are the azimuths too far off the bi-directional beamwidth?
Maybe, although a DB4e with a supplemental VHF element (if required) would probably be my preference. The azimuths are fine as the UHF loops of the C2/V have a 70° beamwidth, even with the reflector removed. There are other issues that do need addressing, namely multipath and the tree-obstructed signal path to KMYS, that VHF 5 station, and several high-VHF major stations.
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What is the best option for receiving a strong signal for KMYS?
Seriously, trees have the capability of effectively shredding the signal before the signals ever arrive at the antenna. Just like Humpty Dumpty, all the king's horses and all the king's men and the right antenna and the most capable ATSC tuners around can't put it back together again.
It's important to select a mounting location that minimizes the potential ill effects of trees. It will greatly improve your odds of success.
Since we cannot see your actual situation, our advice is based on the limited information you've provided.
Actually, I don't think a 2nd antenna is needed, but a different one probably is. However, given the information you have provided, it may prove to be "Mission Unlikely" despite all best efforts.
My recommendation is for a DB4e with the reflectors removed (drill out rivets)and with the "old style" VHF retrofit kit originally intended for the C2 attached to the back side of the mast clamp. You would have to call the office to order that last item, it isn't on the website. I've attached a tip sheet that I did up several years ago on how to add the VHF element to a number of our then-current models. The DB4e is covered on the 2nd page.
This option is doable. I'll follow your expert advice and do the retrofit. I'm an "old style" guy anyway. I want to thank you and rabbit73 for all the excellent information and guidance. I will post the performance when complete.
