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Old 28-Sep-2013, 1:04 PM   #21
Ryan1984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GroundUrMast View Post
Double check assembly of the antenna. Pay particular attention to phase lines being connected and routed as per the manufacturer's instructions. Be certain that the phasing lines do not touch the boom.
Did as you suggested. I was careful to make sure they weren't touching when I put it up, and they were not. However, where they go into the black box and sit in the pegs, one side had come out a little and wasn't making contact with the piece that has the cable connector on it. Hard to explain, but anyway, I'm getting ABC, NBC, CBS, Ion (69.1) and Fox at 72 % (according to Tivo) and it's steady. CW comes in about 60% and picture is perfect.

For some reason, I can't get a decent signal on PBS. It's the same direction and distance as ABC and NBC so I understand why. It picks it up at 32%, which is the same thing I get from the Boston stations that I'm not trying to get...makes me think the TVfool Analysis could be wrong, but I'm not sure.
Not a deal breaker, I don't need PBS, just kinda wondering.

Anyway, thanks for the help. Everything is good now. Now I just have to get back on the roof and properly secure everything. One more question, I'm going to ground the Antenna to my electric box, that's where the cable and satellite were both grounded to, I can just take the wire from the dish and move it to the Antenna. Question is, where do I attach it to the antenna?
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Old 28-Sep-2013, 5:59 PM   #22
GroundUrMast
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My stock answer is,

Grounding the mast and coax shield are prudent and relatively inexpensive steps that limit the buildup of static-electricity which can damage the tuner. When done correctly, grounding can also reduce the risk caused by a nearby lighting strike.

http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901

Grounding in a basic system is a two step process:

1) Connect a #10 gauge copper wire to the antenna mast. A bronze ground clamp such as the Halex #36020 is well suited for this application. Run the wire directly to the electrical service ground. Avoid sharp bends in the wire. (If the ground wire between the service panel and ground rod is accessible, an Intersystem Bonding Termination devise can be placed onto the ground wire without cutting or disconnecting it. This provides a means to connect the #10 mast ground wire to the existing ground wire close to the ground rod outside the building. If possible, avoid running the new ground wire inside the building, energy from static or electrical storms is best directed to ground before it has any path into the building. The mast ground wire can be bare or insulated, your choice.) (Examples of Intersystem Bonding Termination devises: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...%20termination)

2) Run the coax from the antenna to a location close to the electrical service ground. Install a ground block and with another piece of #10 wire, connect it to the electrical service ground at the same point you connected the mast ground. (Examples of Coax Grounding Blocks: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...x+ground+block)

I don't recommend short-cuts such as driving a new ground rod that is not connected to the existing electrical service ground. An isolated ground rod often has a high resistance that provides very limited ground connection. The goal is to connect to the same ground system that protects the rest of the home.

Surge protectors located inside outlet strips at the TV, computer or similar devises are worth consideration. A surge protector with a high joule rating is able to absorb more fault energy than a unit with a lower joule rating. Some surge protection units include phone jacks and F-connectors to enable protection of a phone line, coax cable and the power cable(s). However, in the case of an outdoor mounted antenna, this type of protection should not be considered a 'first-line of defense'.
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If the well is dry and you don't see rain on the horizon, you'll need to dig the hole deeper. (If the antenna can't get the job done, an amp won't fix it.)

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