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Old 11-Aug-2019, 3:05 AM   #45
GroundUrMast
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Greater Seattle Area
Posts: 4,773
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTAFAN View Post
No, I think my soil here is a combination of clay and sand in south OC, CA. Probably better than many other locations, I'm guessing.

I was just wondering how one could check their ground stake for resistance, rather than just rely on typical measurements you see posted on the web. For instance, for a separate antenna mast ground rod bonding back to your service entrance, the NEC wants 25 Ohms or less. How would you know your ground stake complies with the code unless you want to fork over some bucks for sophisticated equipment I've read about or hire an electrician at Union wages?

I didn't think it would be as easy as using a multimeter, but I guess I was hoping against hope.

Thanks, Tim for your reply. Anything else is appreciated too.
You are correct, the NEC makes reference to 25 ohms in 250.53 and requires an additional rod if that value is not achieved. Until a few years ago, the area I live in was so well known for poor ground conductivity that the inspectors and electricians all assumed that two rods were required. Now this area requires all new construction to use a Ufer ground connection that makes use of the steel rebar in the foundation.

But remember that your electrical service ground is only one of hundreds or even thousands of connections to earth that are all interconnected trough the power utility neutral. For static discharge purposes only, a high resistance connection of several thousand ohms is adequate to bleed off the charge. Your existing electrical service ground is going to do just fine unless it was installed incorrectly or has been damaged.

Focus on bonding your mast and coax to the existing electrical service grounding system and sleep well.
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If the well is dry and you don't see rain on the horizon, you'll need to dig the hole deeper. (If the antenna can't get the job done, an amp won't fix it.)

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