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Old 15-Aug-2014, 8:18 PM   #5
GroundUrMast
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Location: Greater Seattle Area
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Here's a general summary re. basic grounding of an antenna system, http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901 (post #20)

Quote:
My problem is that the grounding rod for the service panel is located on the exact opposite side of our home. I have read that you have got to ground the rod that I just drove to the ground rod at the service entrance with #6 copper wire with no sharp bends. So that leaves out making a run around to the backside of the house.

So does that mean that I have to drill through the concrete block both front and back and run the ground wire under the home to make this connection?
'Sharp bends' is a rather ambiguous term, most installations will require some bends. The point is that a 6" radius bend has less inductance than a 4" radius bend, making the 6" radius more desirable than the tighter bend. I would avoid kinking the wire and would absolutely avoid coiling the grounding wire. These kinks and coils have virtually no effect on DC current but provide substantial impedance to AC current. As the frequency increases so does the impedance (the AC version of resistance).

Choosing the route for your grounding system connections will be a compromise of ideals. If access to the crawl space is difficult, I would look at running around the house.
Quote:
...can I just use a grounding strap and attach the grounding wire to the base of the mast to hook to the ground rod I just drove that is a few feet away?
Yes, if the new rod is bonded (using #6 AWG copper and approved connectors per NEC art. 810) to the existing electrical service grounding system. The connection from the mast to the grounding system can be made with #10 AWG copper. Though #8 AWG is not excessive if you can afford it.

Quote:
Another question involves the coax. I have bought a grounding block for it and the coax will be entering the home through one of those air vents used to help circulate air under a mobile home. I will have a drip loop made before it does this. The grounding block will also be able to be grounded to the grounding rod I just drove."
The ideal location for the coax grounding block is near the grounding connection point used by TELCO and CATV services (usually near your electrical service). This helps keep voltage differences between these systems as close to zero as possible. The connection from the grounding block to the electrical service ground should be made with #10 AWG cooper or better... and ideally the total wire used should be no more than 10 feet.

Connecting the coax ground block to the new rod is a 'second best' option. Any impedance to current in the bond between the new rod and the existing grounding system will produce voltage differences if any current flows in the grounding system.
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Last edited by GroundUrMast; 16-Aug-2014 at 4:02 AM. Reason: sp.
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