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May be a stupid question but I have to ask.
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Not a stupid question; very logical. As you found out, the code requires a 6 gauge copper wire between the ground rod and the house electrical system ground to eliminate any difference of potential; verrrry expensive.
The code is written for electrical professionals, and is difficult for the rest of us to understand. And it changes every few years. And the local inspector (AHJ, Authority Having Jurisdiction) has the final say, if you dare getting him involved.
Every location is unique; all you can do is the best you can. Many people put an antenna up without any grounding, but I think you should at least ground the coax shield to reject interference and for personal electrical safety. The coax is connected to AC operated equipment that has leakage current even when operating properly. I have had three close calls with electrical shock, so I'm probably more cautious than most.
CECB Leakage Current, post #1022
Getting A/C voltage on converter box's antenna input !
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/81-o...ml#post1457594
Equipment Leakage Current, post #1025
http://www.digitalhome.ca/forum/81-o...ml#post1457668
In our apartment, the electrical panel ground wire is connected to the copper water pipe, so I use that pipe for my coax ground. Recent construction now uses some plastic pipes, so you need to check if your cold water pipe is really grounded.
If your cold water pipe is also used as a house electrical system ground, you can connect your coax grounding block wire there. Do not disconnect your house electrical system ground, even for a moment, when connecting your ground wire.
So, to me, the coax ground is the most important. The code also requires a separate ground wire for the mast, which would be difficult for you to do. Dish installers use the "piggy back" method and run a wire from the dish mount to the grounding block; the grounding wire from the grounding block to the house electrical system ground does double duty.
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piggy-back method
There is an alternate method used by dish installers, called the "piggy-back" method, but it doesn't meet code. It uses coax that has an attached 17 gauge copper clad steel messenger wire. That coax runs from the antenna to the grounding block, with the grounding block connected to the house electrical system ground with 10 gauge copper wire. The steel wire runs from the mast to the grounding block.
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Satellite System Grounding
Part 2 - NEC Overview
Presented by Todd Humphrey
http://www.dbsinstall.com/diy/Grounding-2.asp
Todd Humphrey doesn't speak for the NFPA that publishes the NEC code, but he has some ideas that are helpful. The local electrical inspector (AHJ, authority having jurisdiction) has the final say if you are willing to get him involved. Some inspectors are more friendly than others; a local electrician could tell you.
Are there any ground connections left from the dish installation?