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Old 29-Sep-2019, 5:54 PM   #4
GroundUrMast's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Greater Seattle Area
Posts: 4,773
It looks like we were both writing and posting at the same time
1. Should I disconnect the existing ground wire from antenna mast to 8' grounding rod below, and instead install a new ground wire to the GES on the opposite side of the house (and a new ground wire from the coax grounding block to the GES)?

2. There is an intersystem grounding block at the GES - should both a new antenna ground wire, and separate coax ground wire, be attached to this block?

3. A big issue I've not found any good solution for, or even referenced in any post here, is the length of run of the new ground wire (about 125'), which will necessitate either one or more splices of shorter lengths of #6 ground wire, or purchasing a roll or wire much longer than I need, at a much greater cost. Yet as best as I can tell, splicing ground wire must only be done with irreversible methods, which appear to have a high cost of their own. Are there any other options?

4. Also best as I can tell, ground wire can be stapled to the wood siding on my house, or (preferred, under the eaves), using common NM staples that do not have to be insulated. Correct?

5. Finally, it seems only common sense, but the ground wire must not make contact with any metal between the mast and GES - including metal gutters, conduit, vents, etc - correct?


1. Yes, I would opt to use only the existing electrical service GES. This would allow you to avoid the need for expensive #6 AWG wire. Both the mast and coax bonding can be done properly with #10 AWG.

2. An existing Inter-system bonding connector is the ideal connection point in most applications. It's purpose is for bonding masts, coax and phone service.

3. The run length is not an issue. Under normal conditions there is no current in a bonding conductor so there is no voltage drop concern. Again, I see no need to make these bonding connections with #6 AWG... The NEC calls out #10 AWG as the appropriate size for the mast and coax bonding conductors. I would avoid splicing if at all possible.

4. I prefer to use UV stabilized nylon tie wraps & stainless screws... I don't like rust stains.

5. I take measures to avoid intentional connection to other conductors. I also take appropriate steps to protect the conductors from physical damage.
If the well is dry and you don't see rain on the horizon, you'll need to dig the hole deeper. (If the antenna can't get the job done, an amp won't fix it.)

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