Thanks for the pictures. That does help...
That black box you have that had separate terminals for UHF and VHF is a diplexor. It performs the same function as a UVSJ. The only difference is that it takes in twin-lean inputs (the screw terminals) instead of the "F-type" connectors. It looks like the output is an F-type connector. Since this component is going from twin-lead to F-type connectors, it must also have balun functionality built into it.
The Monster Cable gold colored splitter you have is a simple two-way splitter. It is not a UVSJ and does not have the ability to separate or combine UHF and VHF signals.
When separate VHF and UHF antennas are combined through a diplexor (like the UVSJ), there is very little signal loss (about 0.5 dB) on the way through the device. When a plain splitter is used instead, the loss will be more (about 3.5 dB) and there is the potential for some cross-talk / interference going between the antennas (that is, the VHF antenna might pick up a little UHF signal and the UHF antenna might pick up a little VHF signal, and when combined, the resulting signal might not be so clean).
With the components that you have, the connections look like they are in the correct order. Just for completeness, here's how everything ought to go together...
1) Connect the 4-bay antenna to the UHF input on the diplexor (black unit) using twin-lead.
2) Connect the dipole antenna to the VHF input on the diplexor using twin-lead.
3) Use RG6 coax to connect from the diplexor down to a convenient place where you want to split the signal. In your photos it looks like you have the splitter attached directly to the diplexor. This also works, but puts a lot of wires and components close to the antenna. Any objects near an antenna can alter its performance. If you run a section of coax between the diplexor and the splitter, you can get some of the clutter away from the antenna.
4) Use RG6 coax to go from the splitter to each of your TVs. These connections can go straight into your receiver with no other components necessary (i.e., no other converters, baluns, splitters, or anything else).
The bowtie whiskers are nominally 8" long to roughly cover the UHF band. If your whiskers are a little longer, the antenna will favor lower channel numbers (like channels 14-35). If your whiskers are shorter, the antenna will favor higher channel numbers (like 36-69). The differences from 7" to 9" is gradual, so anything within this range should yield pretty good performance for most of the UHF band.
The bowties work best if all the whisker sets have identical lengths, or at least very symmetrical (e.g., the top/bottom pair should be the same and the middle pair should be the same, and each set should be symmetrical left-to-right). The feed point (where you connect the twin-lead) should be exactly in the middle.
You should definitely increase the spacing between the whiskers and the reflector screen. Having the reflector screen too close to the whiskers will degrade their effectiveness. You can have no reflector at all, or have one that is at least 4" behind the whiskers. With a proper reflector, you get about 3 dB better gain than having no reflector.
Since your VHF stations are in upper VHF (channels 8 and 9), the ideal setup for the rabbit ears is to have them laid out in a stright line horizontally with a tip-to-tip length of about 40-45 inches (longer elements will favor lower channels). Both elements should be equal length. If you can, you should also put some space between the bowtie antenna and the rabbit ears (at least a couple of feet). This will minimize the interaction between the antennas and keep them close to their ideal performance.
All the antenna elements should be kept far away from any other objects. An antenna functions by resonating at certain frequencies. Any time there are objects (especially conductive materials) close to the antenna, the entire behavior of the antenna can change.
Hopefully, some of this information will help you clean up your reception.
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