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First off, the DB8e was never designed for VHF, so any expectation of reliable VHF reception with it is misplaced. While it may work, the VHF reception may be at very odd angles to the aim of the antenna which will make adjustment for UHF reception unreliable. If you need VHF reception, please plan accordingly for it separately. VHF stations are those with a number of "13" or less in the column labeled "Real". In your plot, only WBRE "Virtual (display)" 28.x and WYOU 22.x are VHF stations. All the others, regardless of displayed channel number, are UHF stations. The DB8e gets its maximum UHF performance when both panels are aligned parallel to each other. When separated to aim in different directions, sensitivity is reduced markedly.

Secondly, trees will represent an unknown amount of attenuation. Personally, I've measured attenuation values of anywhere from 10 dB to over 40 dB in a wet forest. When the wind blows and the trees move, it's far, far worse as the signals basically get shredded before ever getting to the antenna. After that, it's kind of like Humpty Dumpty. Weak UHF signals, especially those listed as "2-edge" are ones I anticipate will be unlikely to be reliable when the receiving location is in the woods.

All of the UHF signals from a heading of 344° magnetic are from the Waymart translator site. This site has a 300 watt maximum ERP for each transmitted UHF channel with only 255 watts pointed in your direction. From 24 miles away through a forest, I'd assume they will not be reliable, if received at all. You might get some of them some of the time, but I would not plan on them.

Because your location has the potential to get all of the Scranton stations from two potential sources, it is necessary for you to be able to identify the real channel being received as opposed to the displayed or virtual channel. Some TV sets make this easy, others difficult, others impossible. You'll need to dig into the menus of your set to see what diagnostic capabilities are available. Identifying stations by both their call letters and by their real channel removes all ambiguity. In order to properly diagnose your reception, this real channel information is vital.

I don't have the benefit of having your precise coordinates so I cannot see a rooftop view of your surroundings, so I can only give you general advise. The usual rule of "Higher is better" has two major exceptions, both of which are present in your area. The first has to do with the incoming signal path. When the signals must pass over hills or mountains, the only way signals can reach the shadowed area is by diffraction. The basic rule for that is that lower frequencies diffract more readily than do higher frequencies. This has the practical effect of spreading the signals vertically by frequency such that you might receive different frequencies and any given height of the antenna. The second exception is when in trees. Sometimes, lower can be better as the base areas of the trees can represent a slightly more open signal path than the crowns of the trees. In all, any location that offers a clear and unobstructed view of the horizon would be the Holy Grail. If none is available, your results fall into the "unpredictable" category. They will be whatever they turn out to be.

I'd suggest that you get the VHF antenna and the RCA pre-amp before returning. I'd also suggest that you be sure that you are able to get the real channel info from the set so that there is no confusion as to the signal received. Calling the received channel by their network affiliation isn't accurate enough.