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Old 23-Jun-2012, 11:52 AM   #27
Blackbeen
Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Toledo Ohio
Posts: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by GroundUrMast View Post
Thanks, once again, anecdotal evidence that amplifiers are not a substitute for a correctly spec'd and installed antenna.

Re. grounding, my stock answer is:
Grounding the mast and coax shield are prudent and relatively inexpensive steps that limit the buildup of static-electricity which can damage the tuner. When done correctly, grounding can also reduce the risk caused by a nearby lighting strike.

http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901

Grounding in a basic system is a two step process:

1) Connect a #10 gauge copper wire to the antenna mast. A bronze ground clamp such as the Halex #36020 is well suited for this application. Run the wire directly to the electrical service ground. Avoid sharp bends in the wire. (Often you can use a 'split-bolt' electrical connector to clamp the #10 wire to the existing ground wire close to the ground rod outside the building. If possible, avoid running the new ground wire inside the building, energy from static or electrical storms is best directed to ground before it has any path into the building. The wire can be bare or insulated, your choice.)

2) Run the coax from the antenna to a location close to the electrical service ground. Install a ground block and with another peice of #10 wire, connect it to the electrical service ground at the same point you connected the mast ground.

I don't recommend short-cuts such as driving a new ground rod that is not connected to the existing electrical service ground. An isolated ground rod often has a high resistance that provides very limited ground connection. The goal is to connect to the same ground system that protects the rest of the home.

Surge protectors located inside outlet strips at the TV, computer or similar devises are worth consideration. A surge protector with a high joule rating is able to absorb more fault energy than a unit with a lower joule rating. Some surge protection units include phone jacks and F-connectors to enable protection of a phone line, coax cable and the power cable(s). However, in the case of an outdoor mounted antenna, this type of protection should not be considered a 'first-line of defense'.
In your situation, I can only encourage you to 'do the best you can'.
Yeah, I mostly purchased the preamp due to the longer run to the roof, that ideally would have been longer if it was installed the way I wished, but decided to test on the wall beforehand just to be able to compare. I wish I had the ability to get on the roof to be able to test the difference with the preamp on/off but I don't. Suffice to say its working well aside from the channel 4 issue. I am reaching channels at night that a far out of range, I scanned 180-90 magnetic last night, a direction that was not obtainable on the wall, & was receiving very good feeds of Dayton channels, hard to tell how much the preamp has to do with this.
Good grounding tips, I really wish the installer would have been competent enough to have done this rather than the slop job he preformed, as a tenant I feel that doing this in my inexperience would be stepping over the line, if I owned the building going DIY would be more acceptable, but as is I might opt for this: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-HT8.../dp/B000MOVIO6
though its rather pricey especially give recent hits to my pocketbook.
Ah well, this gave me a good reason to write a long report to the BBB.

Last edited by Blackbeen; 23-Jun-2012 at 11:54 AM.
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