Painting an antenna?
 

Hello everyone. My question is if it's ok to paint a DIY antenna or not. I'll be putting it up on the roof (roughly 40-45 feet) and I want it to last as long as possible as my roof has a steep pitch and I don't want to climb it unnecassarily. I'm building a Double Bay Gray Hoverman. I'm making it from 1/2" UV resistant PVC conduit, but not all the parts are UV resistant (tees, elbows, elements, etc.) Also, any idea how long DIY antennas typically last? Thanks for all the help everyone. Researching through the forums has been extremely helpful for nearly every question I've had.

PA. DTV reception
 

The paint will have no effect on your reception.

True.
99% of paints won't, but metallics, might.

You may also consider scuffing the surface, w/ medium grit and wiping down w/ lacquer thinner, or Acetone, so the paint doesn't flake off so easy.

Thanks guys. I was really concerned about how well this may or may not hold up. Especially the nylon washers I was going to use.

Try blue paint to make it harder to see if that is an issue.

Nah...I just want it to hold up the ever changing PA weather. Actually, I want people to see this bit of handy-work.
What do youns (pronounced you-all every where else) think about using UV resistant cable ties to help hold the elements in place?

Cable ties that lack UV resistance won't hold up to sunlight... UV resistance is worth pay for.

IMO, Panduit brand is the gold standard. I paid about $23 for a bag of 100 last time... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LOL!

If it were, I'd be painting mine fluorescent pink.

"UV Stabilized" http://www.parts-express.com/cable-t...n-usa--080-812

Probably not as good as Panduit, but better than the generic white nylon ties. AFAIK just adding carbon to the plastic makes it opaque to UV and more resistant to sunlight.

White PVC
 

I have homemade eightbays made from half-inch white PVC schedule 40. And I've had them outside snow and ice in the winter hot sunny days in the summer they been up in the air for over two years. I drilled seep holes in the bottom elbows. One of them fell tipped over landed whiskers first in the snow and ice. The PVC was fine whiskers not so much. the other one got swiped by oak tree branches when I had a tree removed PVC was fine whiskers got wiped right off the screws.i'm still using the same antennas. I've had to refasten the whiskers a couple times. I am now soldering copper whiskers together and I'm in a put them on a PVC stand and I think I will paint the PVC first thanks for the good idea. I think I'm in a paint mine more just because the white stands out so much on my tower.

These are what I'm planning to use.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercia...5813/202520065

Basically, I'm hoping this set-up lasts about 10 years or better. I figure by doing this, except for the feed points, I'll eliminate the need for screws and thereby excess metal near the elements. Trying my hardest to do this right the first time.

Thank you Jason I...I hadn't thought of the need for seep holes. I'm glad you mentioned it.

As long as the cable tie has some type of UV protection you should be fine. My only complaint re the Home Depot CE brand cable tie is that they get brittle when cold. That has caused trouble when installing them in low temp conditions. Once they're in place, and not disturbed, they don't crack or break due to cold weather.

The pricey Panduit product has always remained flexible at any temperature I've worked in. If you have moderate temperatures during installation, you won't notice a lot of difference between the two products.

Thank you GroundUrMast....I'm hoping to install this coming week. Temps are supposed to be in 40-50F range. Looking at maybe a chimney mount. Wish me luck!

Good luck
 

hope all your work pays off I love my diy antennas. Nothing like free over the air broadcast. From build it yourself antennas. Let us know how it goes. I have never built grayhoverman. So I am courious. You can see my bow tie on the forum under antennas diy db8 they are aluminum wire. when and if I finish my newer copper one I will share pictures I'm going to try copper so I can use the soldered wiskers to fase line.hopeing the connections will hold up better to the harsh conditions I have here. But mostly I like making them and seeing the outcome.

I'll post the results as soon as I can, but it may take a while. I've already built a vertical 8bay as well and it works great. My real channel 32 doesn't come in quite as well as hoped, so I'm curious to see if this does better. However, on every other channel that I can receive at about 18 ft. off the ground, it smoked the triple boom yagi I bought.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/30-2415
I will say this, my Single Bay GH prototype, without any reflector or colinear rods of any sort, picked up my real channel 32 through my attic roof in one spot....so I'm hopeful!

Hear is my newest diy 8 bay. Pvc with left over spray paint I had around the house. Yet to try it with the diy reflector.

Looks really nice Jason I! I didn't do the curved reflector on mine. I just did the flat one. I also was unable to get transmission lines to work for me. So I just combined the top 4 bays and bottom 4 bays with a splitter, which seemed to work decently. Of course, I'm going to have to get them to work with the DBGH build.

Oops! I screwed up! Need advice!
 

Ok, so earlier today I violated the "measure twice, cut once" rule and messed up when cutting the reflector screen gap. So, unless I can use a wider gap, my build may be on hold until I can get more fencing for a reflector screen. Can anyone with experience tell me how wide the gap is supposed to be between the left and right screens? Someone had already told me once before that they thought the gap was 22mm. Then I read somewhere (memory fails me as to where) that it should be 1/2 the element gap spacing. My element gap spacing is 88mm. Does that mean my reflector gap should be 44mm? Or does anyone have a different definitive number? I was originally just going to go with a 1" gap. Most builds use the colinear rod pairs, so I'm having trouble finding an answer.

Can you post a link or an attachment that provides the plans / design that you're building from? It's not clear what you've built or where the possible error is located.