I'm sure I will have more questions but are you saying I need that power strip you linked instead of the one I am using?

That is correct. However, the FEC has a limit to how many errors it is able to correct. Any further errors are uncorrected.
Good explanation.

What is odd though, I haven't seen any corrected errors in your test results. If there were any errors to be corrected, they should first show in corrected errors, which is why I asked you before if you had corrected and uncorrected reversed.

So, I'm wondering is it that the Roamio tuner is not able to correct any errors, and all errors become uncorrected. Or is it that it is able to correct some errors, but it is not showing how many?
The one that you have is just fine, no problem.

I have some questions regarding the grounding. You linked to a grounding block but I found some I wandered would also work that I can get cheaper and quicker:

http://www.amazon.com/cable-Coaxial-...rounding+block

http://www.amazon.com/PcConnectTM-F-...rounding+block

http://www.amazon.com/CNE41312-F-Pin...rounding+block

As far as actually, checking it and ensuring everything is properly grounded is this something a handyman could do? If so, is there something concise that I could give to him and say this is what I need done.

Another question is whether I would need anything else other than one grounding block?

Any of those three would be suitable. Note that the first one is an add-on item. Watch the shipping costs. I ordered an item listed on Amazon, but not sold directly by them. The seller said free shipping in the listing, but it wasn't free and he refused to refund shipping costs. I told Amazon I considered that a breach of contract so Amazon made up the difference by giving me a credit on my next item if sold by Amazon, which they did.

A talented handyman could do it if you show him the diagrams I posted, otherwise you need an electrician. The biggest problem is the connection to the house electrical system ground. He must not disconnect the house ground to connect your grounding block and mast ground wires, even for a moment. He should use a split bolt which makes it possible to connect your ground wires to the house electrical system ground.
Enough 10 gauge copper wire to connect the grounding block and mast to the house ground, and maybe one of these, which is called an IBTB, Intersystem Bonding Termination Block:
http://www.erico.com/public/library/fep/LT1476.pdf

The ways of house electrical system grounding are many and varied:
http://www.dbsinstall.com/diy/Grounding-2.asp

ANTENNA MOUNTING 1
Now that you been kind enough and trusting enough to give me your exact coordinates, I'm better able to consider other antenna mounting options. But I first need to have a better understanding of your present antenna mounting.
Is it safe for me to assume that you have your 91XG and C2V on the satellite mount that is located where the teardrop indicator is located on the satellite view of your house? It looks like it is on the East side of your house, about half way back from the front.

I don't have a photo of your antennas, so I'm trying to picture in my mind if you have both antennas on the same mast, and which is on top. I looked at some other map images to try to see how high your antennas might be, but I couldn't tell. My concern is whether the signals coming from the NE for the C2V are able to clear the roof of the house that is East of your house, because when I turn on the green signal lines for the interactive map, they cross the peak of the roof of that house.
If the house to the East of you is in the path of the signals for the C2V, that might affect those signals. But, I think it is more likely that it is because those signals are too strong for either of your DVRs.
When you connected the antenna directly to the TV, it didn't seem to have any trouble with the signals, but both DVRs did. That tells me that the TV tuner can tolerate less-than-perfect signals which the DVR tuners are not able to do because they are more particular and fussy about the signals than the TV.

ANTENNA MOUNTING 2

When I was looking at the satellite map of your house on bing.com, I was able to rotate the bird's eye view to see the rear of your house. It is an old image (2011), so there might have been some changes. These are the options I see:

1. A 5 ft tripod mount at the peak of the roof at the rear of the house.
2. A thru-the-roof mast to your attic at the same location, similar to a plumbing vent pipe.

Both of these options would require roof penetration, which would need to be done with care to prevent roof leaks.

3. A mast at the back of your house that would run from the first floor deck up to above the peak of the roof. Its base would be on the deck. It would be fastened with an eave mount at the top, and several wall brackets below. It would allow you to adjust the aim of the 91XG from below using the "Armstrong method" before tightening the U bolts.

You could move just the 91XG first and leave the C2V in its present location for now. This would allow you to try other antennas there more easily.

The 91XG has a tilt feature which would allow you to tilt the front of the antenna up for higher angle incoming signals like your 2Edge Fox signal on CH 49. Your location is at the right end of the profile:

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1416102509

Channel 49 is 683 MHz center frequency. Note the increased gain and more narrow angle at that frequency, which means the aim is more critical. Also note the notch at each side of the peak, which means a loss of gain at that angle.

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1416102879

If you stay within the FCC height limits for your antenna, any neighbor or HOA that complained would have to prove that you weren't in compliance.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...na+regulations
http://www.fcc.gov/guides/over-air-r...n-devices-rule

Rabbit,

I was looking at this link: http://www.erico.com/public/library/fep/LT1476.pdf

Particularly, the second page and I believe I have that on the side of my house. When it is daylight tomorrow, i can check but just looking at the pictures on the second page I believe it to at least look pretty similar to what I have.

Is it safe for me to assume that you have your 91XG and C2V on the satellite mount that is located where the teardrop indicator is located on the satellite view of your house? It looks like it is on the East side of your house, about half way back from the front.

I don't have a photo of your antennas, so I'm trying to picture in my mind if you have both antennas on the same mast, and which is on top. I looked at some other map images to try to see how high your antennas might be, but I couldn't tell. My concern is whether the signals coming from the NE for the C2V are able to clear the roof of the house that is East of your house, because when I turn on the green signal lines for the interactive map, they cross the peak of the roof of that house.

Both antennas are using existing satellite mounts that were there already. The coordinates I gave you were pretty close to the area where both antennas are mounting. There is no mast in use that I am aware; just the satellite mounts.

Is it safe for me to assume that you have your 91XG and C2V on the satellite mount that is located where the teardrop indicator is located on the satellite view of your house? It looks like it is on the East side of your house, about half way back from the front.

I don't have a photo of your antennas, so I'm trying to picture in my mind if you have both antennas on the same mast, and which is on top. I looked at some other map images to try to see how high your antennas might be, but I couldn't tell. My concern is whether the signals coming from the NE for the C2V are able to clear the roof of the house that is East of your house, because when I turn on the green signal lines for the interactive map, they cross the peak of the roof of that house.

I've tried to upload some photos I took with my IPAD of the electrical system outside the house and the placement of the antennas. The pictures aren't the best but hopefully will do. The 91XG should be easy to make out and the C2V is just to the right of it in the photo.

Thanks for the photos; they help.

Pic 1: Left to Right, that looks like telephone, power, and internet. Is that correct? I don't see an IBTB.

Pic 2 & 3: I see the 91XG, but not the C2V. I'm confused about the location. I thought the antennas were on the east side of your house. It looks like you were on the east side when you took the photo and the antennas are on the west side. Maybe I have the wrong house.

Regarding Pic 2 and 3, I was standing to the east of the house when I took the photos. I think taking photos with the IPAD is the only option because of the small file size requirement of this website (I believe my camera makes the files too large), so I apologize that they are not the best. If you are having trouble making it out, the C2V is close (just to the right of the 91XG when looking at the photo; probably a couple feet or so in real world distance).

Regarding pic 1 from left to right, it is internet, power, phone. You may need to rotate the photo. Looks like you are right regarding the IBTB.

When you connected the antenna directly to the TV, it didn't seem to have any trouble with the signals, but both DVRs did. That tells me that the TV tuner can tolerate less-than-perfect signals which the DVR tuners are not able to do because they are more particular and fussy about the signals than the TV.

In earlier testing, yes I believe I found that to be the case. Ranking them I would put TV, Tivo Roamio, DVR+. The Roamio was a clear step above the DVR+ in the tuner category (and feature category for that matter).

Tivo support isn't going to be of any help either. When asking about the RS Corrected and RS Uncorrected with them today, they told me you want both to be 0 and anything that shows up in RS Uncorrected is beyond the ability of the Tivo Roamio to fix. When I pressed for what could cause the unfixable errors I was told it "could be any number of things including bad coax." I appreciated them narrowing things down so much!

Thank you for confirming my evaluation.
I agree. Can you get any help from other Roamio users on tivocommunity.com?
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/index.php?
Many image editors will reduce file size. I use the ZoomBrowser software that came with my Canon camera. This site allows jpg attachments up to 500 KB, 1024 x 1024. I try to stay under 200K unless fine detail is needed, 800 wide.
Do I detect a hint of sarcasm there?:)

Looking forward to your attenuator tests, with hopes of making your signals more acceptable to the Roamio.

Is it correct to say that your antennas are on the west side of your roof? If so, does the C2V clear the peak of the roof when aimed NE?

From you photos, it looks like the 91XG is already higher than the peak of your roof, and it has a clear shot at Fox. If that is true, then I see no point in moving it.

When you gave me the coordinates for your house, I assumed the teardrop indicator was not only was showing me the right house, but also the location of your antennas. It seems that my assumption was not correct.

I have sent a set of new coordinates to you by PM that are for the tvfool interactive maps feature, satellite view 45 degrees oblique. Please let me know if I have it right this time, or correct me.

O.K. Another quick question, is it safe to assume the antennas are not grounded after looking at the photos I posted?

Also, I am going to begin to look at bringing out an electrician to ground it (assuming it isn't currently grounded). Is the only thing I need materials wise a single grounding block?

I know I asked before, but I'm just trying to double check and think about what I might need to have on hand that an electrician might not have.

I am not able to answer your quick questions. You have not given me enough information to give you good answers.

I don't live near you, so I can't drive over to your house. I can only go by what you tell and show us.

The first thing you need to do is answer my latest PM with the title Location 2. If you didn't receive that PM, I will send it again.

Then you need to answer a few more questions that I have.

Then I will answer.

If you are going to intentionally WITHHOLD the information that I need to give you GOOD answers, then my answers will be CRAPPY.

GIGO

I really want to help you, but you are making it difficult for me to do it.

With respect and good intentions,
rabbit

I am not withholding anything. I saw your PM, but can't reply to it until I get home from work because the link you provided is blocked by my employer.

OK, I will wait until later. That will give me time to help my wife.

I have been neglecting her to help you.

Here are some new pics I took this evening. The side photos were taken on the right side of the home. The other pics were taken from the back of the home.

Got the attenuators today. Here are the 20 dB results (results taken at 6:50 p.m. on 11-17):

Channel 3-1 50% signal strength, 20dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 120

Channel 3-2 52% signal strength, 21dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, Rs Uncorrected 168

Channel 3-3 50% signal strength, 20dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 147

Channel 10-1 67% signal strength, 27dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 21-1 50% signal strength, 20 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 21-2 same as 21-1

Channel 21-3 same as 21-1 and 21-2

Channel 27-1 72% signal strength, 29 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 33-1 55% signal strength, 22 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 198

Channel 33-2 55% signal strength, 22 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 177

Channel 33-3 55% signal strength, 22 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 78

Channel 49-1 62% signal strength, 25 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 49-2 same as 49-1

Here are the 30 dB results (taken at 7:05 p.m. on 11-17):

Channel 3-1 52% signal strength, 21 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 60

Channel 3-2 52% signal strength, 21 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 162

Channel 3-3 52% signal strength, 21 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 78

Channel 10-1 50% signal strength, 20 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 6

Channel 21-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 210944 and fluctuating by the second

Channel 21-2 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 88064 and fluctuating by the second

Channel 21-3 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 57344 and fluctuating by the second

Channel 27-1 57% signal strength, 23 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 33-1 35% signal strength, 14 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 35302 and fluctuating by the second

Channel 33-2 32% signal strength, 14 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 48538 and fluctuating by the second

Channel 33-3 35% signal strength, 14 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 417585 and fluctuating by the second

Channel 49-1 62% signal strength, 25 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 49-2 same as 49-1

Here are the 40 dB attenuator results (taken at 7:40 p.m. on 11-17):

Channel 3-1 52% signal strength, 21 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 81

Channel 3-2 52% signal strength, 21 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 114

Channel 3-3 52% signal strength, 21 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 156

Channel 10-1 35% signal strength, 14 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 75769 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 21-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 69632 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 21-2 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 151064420 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 21-3 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 69632 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 27-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 69632 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 33-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 75776 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 33-2 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 800768 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 33-3 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 862208 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 49-1 62% signal strength, 25 dB SNR, Rs Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 49-2 same as 49-1

Here are the 50 dB attenuator results:

Channel 3-1 52% signal strength, 21 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 60

Channel 3-2 55% signal strength, 22 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 21

Channel 3-3 55% signal strength, 22 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 48

Channel 10-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 180352 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 21-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected in the millions and fluctuating by the second

Channel 21-2 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected in the millions and fluctuating by the second

Channel 27-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 75776 and huge fluctuations by the second

Channel 33-1 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected in the millions and fluctuations by the second

Channel 33-2 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected in the millions and fluctuated by the second

Channel 33-3 32% signal strength, 13 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 38912 and fluctuations by the second

Channel 49-1 62% signal strength, 25 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Channel 49-2 62% signal strength, 25 dB SNR, RS Corrected 0, RS Uncorrected 0

Thank you for answering my PMs and for understanding my situation here in VA.

I think I haven't been getting enough sleep.

Excellent photos! They give me a much better idea of your antenna system. What was confusing me is that you have two roof peaks. The higher one on the west side, and the lower one on the east side above the garage.

Thank you also for the doing the attenuator tests so quickly. Your photos and tests were worth the trouble because they give us clues to solve your reception problem with the Roamio. I couldn't have done any better if I were there with you. Well done!

The 91XG seems to be doing well for Fox. I will need to take some time to study the results. My first impression is that the problem is NOT too much signal strength for the Roamio from the C2V, but a problem with the signal quality from the C2V; maybe multipath reflections.

Earlier in this thread, post 26, I thought the problem was multipath reflections. Later, I was convinced that the problem was signals that were too strong, based on what other Roamio users had posted. Now, based on your attenuator tests, I'm back to multipath.

That metal stack in front of the C2V couldn't be doing much good for the signals from the NE. I also wonder if they can clear the roof of the house to the East of you. If not, it would cause diffraction and scattering of the signals.

Any chance you can raise the C2V a little higher on that mount to clear the stack for a test?

Your antennas are in a "valley" between the higher roof on the west side of your house, and the roof of the house to your east. It doesn't seem to bother the 91XG because it can look out the end of the valley to Fox. But, the C2V can't see the transmitters from the NE because of the house to your east. How high is your C2V in comparison to the peak of the roof on the house to the east? Can the C2V see above that peak?

You probably will need to get the C2V out of that valley. The best location would be at the rear of the peak of your higher roof, mounted on an eave bracket. A 5 ft mast would probably do it if you didn't want to run the mast all the way down to the deck. A 10 ft mast would be needed if you wanted to stack the 91XG and the C2V on the same mast.

If you try the C2V in that better location, and it still has problems, then you will need to switch to a UHF/VHF-hi combo antenna for the signals from the NE.

The new coordinates you gave me are right for the 45 degree photo, but wrong for the 90 degree image. The green lines from the transmitters would also cross the peak of the house to the east for the 90 degree image if the indicator were moved to the location of your antenna. The default for the tvfool interactive map is 45 degrees for satellite images.

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1416358491

Now, back to your grounding questions:

I think it is safe to assurme that the antenna masts are not grounded, unless the dish guys grounded the satellite mounts. You would know if the coax shield was grounded.

When a dish was removed, did they leave anything like a grounding block? They must have grounded the coax some way.

Which side of your house is the power meter on?

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1416355861

Where do the coax lines from your antennas enter the house?

It's only one grounding block, but it will accept two coax lines. There are also grounding blocks that only accept one coax line, that would be called a single. If your two coax lines enter the house at about the same place, then you can use the dual block. It should be mounted outside, just before the lines enter.

The electrician should be able to supply the 10 gauge copper wire used to connect the block to the house electrical system, as per the diagrams I posted.

Since you will have three 10 gauge wires, two for the masts, and one for the grounding block, an IBTB would make life easier for him. Most electrical supply houses will have it. Otherwise you will have to give him one to put near the meter.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...ystem+bonding+

https://www.google.com/search?q=IBTB...w&ved=0CEQQsAQ

He gets to decide how to connect the IBTB to your house electrical ground.
PRINT THIS FOR THE ELECTRICIAN:
http://www.dbsinstall.com/diy/Grounding-2.asp

The coax from the 91XG and C2V enter through the roof into the attic.

The power meter is on the east side of my home (the same side that I took the side photos of the antennas).

I was looking at the surge protector I have in the attic when I was doing the attenuator tests and noticed the "grounded" light was on. Not sure why though. I don't have any grounding blocks that I know of.

Good, that will make it easier for the electrician.

That just means that the surge protector power strip was connected to a 3-wire outlet that is working like it should.

Any chance you can raise the C2V a little higher on that mount to clear the stack for a test?

Your antennas are in a "valley" between the higher roof on the west side of your house, and the roof of the house to your east. It doesn't seem to bother the 91XG because it can look out the end of the valley to Fox. But, the C2V can't see the transmitters from the NE because of the house to your east. How high is your C2V in comparison to the peak of the roof on the house to the east? Can the C2V see above that peak?

You probably will need to get the C2V out of that valley. The best location would be at the rear of the peak of your higher roof, mounted on an eave bracket. A 5 ft mast would probably do it if you didn't want to run the mast all the way down to the deck. A 10 ft mast would be needed if you wanted to stack the 91XG and the C2V on the same mast.

If you try the C2V in that better location, and it still has problems, then you will need to switch to a UHF/VHF-hi combo antenna for the signals from the NE.

I was looking right now at the peak of the house to the east of me. It is hard to tell because it is dark but looks to be close to even or so.

When you speak to the possible new location for the C2V can you link me to the bracket you are referring to? Also is there any way you could provide me a photo in a pm like before marked with exactly where you are suggesting?

Finally, do you think it would be better to get the antenna situation settled before diving into the grounding issue? I began looking and making a list of more directional UHF/VHF antennas I may ask for opinions on. Any antenna mounting/remounting is going to have to be done by outside help as I am not skilled in that area and promised my spouse I'd stay off the roof.

I regretfully have to say I have no idea. I didn't do my own antenna installations.

Want to make sure this is the correct IBTB: http://www.amazon.com/Erico-Products.../dp/B002FYN808

That looks like the right one that was in the data sheet I posted, and it got good reviews. It's hard to tell what it looks like when it is still in the box!
http://www.erico.com/public/library/fep/LT1476.pdf

If you look at the end of the box you will see an image of it.

Satellite image with green lines added to post #104, as per your OK.

I have to leave now; will be back when I have more time.

Earlier in the thread we were thinking about moving the 91XG to a better location, because Fox is your weakest signal that needs a high gain antenna and an amp.

But, since it is doing well at its present location, and the C2V isn't doing very well for the other stations, I think the C2V should be moved to the best location on your house.

That location is at the rear of the peak of the higher roof on the west side of your house. The signals from the NE will clear the house that is east of you when the C2V is there.

This is what the signal lines look like at 45 degrees Bird's Eye view:

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1416448363

And this is what they look like at 90 degrees vertical view:

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1416448363
Eave brackets/mounts look like this:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...mount+brackets
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...unt+tv+antenna

Channel Master makes one, but I can't tell what gauge it is:
http://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master.../dp/B001RD703E

This one is 16 gauge:
http://www.3starinc.com/adjustable_e...t_bracket.html

This one by Winegard is only 18 gauge:
http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp...0012&ss=363299

Comments by hams about eave mounts:
http://www.eham.net/ehamforum/smf/in...c=60884.0;wap2

I don't have any personal experience with this type of mount, but it looks like the important factors are the gauge of the metal and the strength of your roof at the point where it is fastened.

The board at the gable end is often called the fascia board, but the proper name is bargeboard. The fascia board is at the end of the rafters.

You will need someone with a very tall ladder to install that mount. A carpenter/contractor probably would be a good choice because he could reinforce the roof at that location if necessary. Tom Silva, of This Old House, would be my choice, but he would not be available.:)

I wouldn't put anything more than a small antenna on a 5 ft mast there. If you wanted to put both antennas there you would need a 5 ft tripod mount with a 10 ft mast on the top of the roof, which would require roof penetration of the fasteners. Another alternative for two antennas would be a tall mast, of 10 ft TV mast sections, that was fastened at the roof end and several places below with wall brackets, resting on your deck below.
Done.

I don't have any personal experience with this type of mount, but it looks like the important factors are the gauge of the metal and the strength of your roof at the point where it is fastened.

The board at the gable end is often called the fascia board, but the proper name is bargeboard. The fascia board is at the end of the rafters.

You will need someone with a very tall ladder to install that mount. A carpenter/contractor probably would be a good choice because he could reinforce the roof at that location if necessary. Tom Silva, of This Old House, would be my choice, but he would not be available.

I wouldn't put anything more than a small antenna on a 5 ft mast there. If you wanted to put both antennas there you would need a 5 ft tripod mount with a 10 ft mast on the top of the roof, which would require roof penetration of the fasteners. Another alternative for two antennas would be a tall mast, of 10 ft TV mast sections, that was fastened at the roof end and several places below with wall brackets, resting on your deck below.


O.K. So if I am understanding you right then I need an eavesmount and then either a 5 foot mast (if just moving the C2V) or a 10 foot mast and a 5 foot tripod mount (if moving both antennas). Is that correct?

I have some additional questions as well. How tall of a ladder are we talking? You said a carpenter so I am assuming a handyman would be a good choice. Correct?

My next question is regarding aim. How would the antennas be able to be aimed precisely (particularly critical for the 91XG) because its not like that part of the roof is able to be walked around on like where it is located now.

My last question for today has to do with alternative antennas. Since I will need to bring someone out (handyman?) to do this for me, I probably need to have an alternative antenna on hand if the error messages/multipath continues with the C2V. I have been researching some options which I will list below for feedback.

Channel Master CM 2016: http://www.channelmasterstore.com/Di..._p/cm-2016.htm

Winegard HD7694P: http://www.amazon.com/Winegard-HD769...negard+hd7694p

Antenna Craft HBU22: http://antennacraft.net/pdfs/HBU22_.pdf

Channel Master CM3016: http://www.channelmasterstore.com/Di..._p/cm-3016.htm

I can't find specs for it but this RCA gets good reviews: http://www.amazon.com/RCA-ANT751-Dur..._cd_ql_qh_dp_t

Primary consideration of course is performance, but size suitable for the mounting options and durability for weather extremes (here in MO we get quite a wide range of winter weather and other events). If I am overlooking a model, I'm willing to listen. I would like to get similar to better performance than what I am currently getting out of the C2V (again if I need to replace).

Which attic, the one above the garage or the one above the 2nd floor?

The attic above the garage is where the coax enters and the only attic I have access to.

Simply relocating the C2V from its current location is likely all you need to do. It "appears" that it's below the level of your neighbors home, but, only someone standing on the roof would be able to be certain. Your situation illustrates the pitfall of using an existing satellite mount without taking the TV antenna's different requirements into proper consideration.

If that existing dish mount has support "legs" for a larger 18x24 dish, it's sturdy enough to install an extension pipe into it an raises the C2V up. Depending on the specific mount, you might easily get 5-8' of additional elevation which might clear the neighbor's rooftop.

Barring that, simply moving the antenna to the rear edge of the garage roof, closer to your deck, may allow the C2V a relatively unobstructed field of view for a good distance towards Fordland. I'd even be inclined to try it on your deck if that gets you out from behind the neighboring house.

One thing I did notice when I zoomed out from your rooftop view is that your signal LOS passes right through what appears to be a big tree in the back yard of the home on the corner across the street. If your reception issues correlate with wind or rain, then that tree would likely explain the issues.

Of the antennas you named, I'd only consider the second one plus the HBU33 as candidates. If you're going to have to go bigger, no point in trying to be subtle about it.

That's because Voxx Intl doesn't seem interested in publishing any specs.

Let's say that dish doesn't have "legs" is there a mount that could be used in its current location that would give it enough height there to alleviate any issues? Just wanting to consider all the possibilities.

I am aware of the tree that you speak about. I haven't noticed any patterns with wind or rain but I will watch for it.