Advise/suggestions needed for antenna

[Tempus T]

Hi there,

Yet another person looking to cut the cable.
My report is as follows:
http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...8e03029d67c55f

SW Fl location.

I have an old in-ground (cement pad) antenna for mounting. The only problem being that the second section is frozen solid and no matter what I do I can't seem to free it. I have dumped almost a can of PB Blaster down it and other things but it just will not break free. So I can only get the third topmost section to telescope, makes it bit wobbly if I go too far and with our summer storms... I can get up about 20 feet or so, just beyond the crest of the roof.

Another point to note is that I have the dreaded FL pines directly to the North.

I would be open to some sort of attic antenna of course if that would be doable but the fact that I seem to be in the middle of signal areas and some good distance away has me concerned.

Thanks in advance for any and all advise/suggestions/possibilities!

Still reading and trying to learn all the great info on this site.

[rabbit73]

Hi, Tempus T:

I have the dreaded FL pines directly to the North.

Keep it simple. Forget about the North, which will be much more difficult, and require a bigger VHF/UHF combo antenna mounted higher, with a preamp, and aimed at Tampa to the exclusion of your better signals from Fort Myers. Your best signals are from the ESE at about 110 degrees magnetic which is where you should aim a UHF antenna like the Antennas Direct DB4e or C2. Are there trees or buildings in the signal path from that direction?

If you want to experiment, try the DB4e in the attic first. The signal loss in the attic is difficult to predict.

If the antenna is outside, the coax shield should be grounded with a grounding block that is connected to the house electrical system ground with 10 gauge copper wire for electrical safety and to reject interference. For further compliance with the electrical code (NEC), the mast should also be grounded in a similar manner to drain any buildup of static charge, but the system will not survive a direct strike.

[Tempus T]

rabbit73>

Nothing in the way to the ESE just those wonder pines to the north.

The idea of putting it in the attic is appealing, if it works of course.

I will have to look into the whole grounding part of this. How does that work for a pad based/installed pole? I see by the diagram that the mast is grounded from a clamp mounted around(?) the mast pole so does that mean it would just be run down through a clamp on the in-ground pole? Of course I'm not even sure where/what the "power service grounding electrode system" is. But yes I figured it would be important, especially down here.... Is there a link to more grounding instructions on the site that I'm not seeing atm?

I see that Antennas Direct DB4e is cheaper online but then returns could be cost prohibitive if reception is a problem....

Decisions Decisions....

Thanks again for the reply!

[rabbit73]

How does that work for a pad based/installed pole?

Interesting question in the gray area between the usual two ways. The diagram shows that the grounding block and the mast should be grounded separately to the house electrical system ground. The other way it is done is to connect the coax grounding block to the house electrical system ground and connect the mast to a grounding rod below the mast. In the second case the code says that the grounding rod for the mast must be connected ("bonded") to the house electrical system ground with number 6 gauge copper wire, which is very expensive. The reason given is to eliminate any difference in potential between the house electrical system ground and the mast grounding rod.

I'm not certain which category your ground mounted mast falls in, but I would pick the less expensive way. Since you have a lot of storms in your part of the country, you might want to consult an electrician. The person who has the final say about an electrical installation is the local electrical inspector, who the code calls the AHJ, Authority Having Jurisdiction. You might not want to get the inspector involved because some are more friendly than others. A local electrician can tell you more.

Todd Humphrey doesn't speak for the NFPA that publishes the NEC code, but he has some ideas that are helpful.

Satellite System Grounding
Part 2 - NEC Overview
Presented by Todd Humphrey
http://www.dbsinstall.com/diy/Grounding-2.asp

http://www.reeve.com/Documents/Artic...ents_Reeve.pdf

I see that Antennas Direct DB4e is cheaper online but then returns could be cost prohibitive if reception is a problem....

I understand your problem, but I can't guarantee results because too many unknown factors are involved. I picked the DB4e because it has more than enough gain for outside, and might have enough for the attic. You don't need a preamp for outside, but if the attic loss is more than average, you could add an amp.

BestBuy sells Antennas Direct antennas.

[Tower Guy]

I agree that the DB-4e aimed at the local Ft Myers stations makes sense. Yet notice that several of the Tampa stations are on VHF. This means that two antennas; the DB-4e plus a VHF aimed north can be combined very easily using a UVSJ. The VHF antenna will work much better on the roof than the attic and may not need a tall mast.

VHF only antennas are harder to get these days but you can consider an mcm electronics 30-2475 or abilityhdtv 6E512F.

[Tempus T]

Don't the wonderful Australian Pines to the North (next lot) present a problem for that as well?

Sounds complicated but then again I'm still learning and looking for any/all suggestions.

Thanks!

[ADTech]

VHF signals are affected by trees far less than are UHF signals due to their (VHF) longer wavelengths