Grounding questions

[oakleyhoma]

I've seen on various posts to refer to this for info on grounding http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/basics.html I've read it and have some concerns. Near the bottom of the hdtv primer document, under Some Additional NEC Rules, it says:

Do not attach an antenna to the power line service entrance power mast. Outside the building, the antenna coaxial and grounding wires shall not come closer than:
2 feet from exterior power lines of 250 Volts or less.
10 feet from exterior power lines of greater than 250 Volts.
1 foot from underground power lines.
6 feet from lightning rod wires.

These pictures show where I want to ground and enter my house. I have underground power. The closest photo shows orange where the power company said my line comes in and you can see my meter. The orange paint line ends at my house ground rod. The second photo shows orange flagging where I'd hoped to add a second ground rod, connected to the first, where the soil stays more moist (note it's right beneath a gutter). In both photos, you can see a pvc pipe end with orange in it - that's from a propane furnace no longer in use, so that's where I would enter the basement with coax, connecting to a distribution amp just inside. Do I have a problem with connecting the mast ground to my existing ground rod, because my power is coming in there? Is adding a ground rod in damper soil beneath the gutter a good idea? The third photo shows peak of my roof, where I suppose I'll mount a tripod with short mast, leading coax and ground wire on the roof, over the gutter, and downward.

[GroundUrMast]

You appear to have no exposed power lines, they are in conduit (called a raceway by the NEC). So you are free to run the down-lead closer to the power. [NEC 810.18(A)]

Mount a grounding block near the electrical service ground-wire (perhaps below the cable company / phone company box. use a new split-bolt connector to clamp your #10 AWG copper grounding wire to the existing heavy copper wire going to the ground rod. I see two split-bolt connectors on that existing ground already, don't loosen them or move them. Be sure to clean paint and corrosion off the wire so you get a reliable connection.

You should end up with a short run of #10 AWG from the new split-bolt to the ground-block and a longer run of #10 from the same split-bolt to the antenna mast.

I see no reason to add another ground rod. You can if you like, but if you do, you must run a #6 AWG copper wire from the new rod to the existing. Isolated ground rods can result in larger voltage differences between them and other ground rods if fault current flows in one but not the other. The #6 AWG copper 'bond' is needed to hold the voltage differences to a minimum.

Grounding in your case is straight forward and easy. My biggest concern is that you take steps to prevent rain water from running down a cable then straight though a hole into the wall... Use a drip loop and paint-able outdoor calk/sealant.

[oakleyhoma]

Thank you. I've never done a ground block but will examine the diagrams I have some more. And I will certainly have a good drip loop and seal the hole well before I'm done with it. Now, an additional question: Both the ground wire and coax will have to run from the antenna, down the roof, and over the face of the gutter. Is that an issue? Will the gutter rub/cut at the wires if it moves around? How do I keep it from moving and blowing around? I know I don't want to staple them into the roof. Also, after clearing the gutter in a gentle arc, I'd like to pull both coax and ground in to the siding to staple them into the corner as I head down. What kind of staple is appropriate?

[GroundUrMast]

Are you going to mount on the chimney? I would, for the strength, avoiding a run of cable on the roof and particularly the added height.

You can use an Arrow T-25 stapler with the corresponding staples: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrow-Fas...2#.UVTh2Dd49Ss Or use nail on style clips: http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/1001574...3#.UVTiKjd49Ss

If you must mount on the roof deck, do so close to an edge, then run the cable to the edge and over.

[oakleyhoma]

I can't do the chimney mount, only have 12-14 inches of chimney to strap to. I have to run coax and ground straight down the roof, can't go under an eave. Is crossing over/contacting the gutter a potential problem? How could that be alleviated? I'm wondering about hdpe small diameter conduit, zip tied at the mast/mount and also at the gutter crossover point. Or pvc.

oakleyhoma , you are making this Way More Complicated then Really Is.

At some point you will start and complete the install.

[GroundUrMast]

Though I'm not fully understanding why you can't avoid crossing the gutter, if you must, it will work fine. If the coax rubs through in 15 or 25 years, so be it. I would skip the complex pipe solution.

[oakleyhoma]

As always, I appreciate everyone's help. I'm all for getting it done, but don't like to make needless mistakes. They're costly, especially in terms of time and outcome. "measure twice, cut once". The gutter crossing is because I'm not at an eave and it's the route that makes the most sense to me. I'll skip the pipe and let er hang.

[GroundUrMast]

Sounds like a plan. There are often several 'right' ways to get it done.