The results from using a preamp are discouraging.
RCA TVPRAMP1R. Tried various settings and connections and got -0- stations with any of them. Here's what I tried: FM Trap on UHF separate (Yesterday this was set to combined with the same results) Tried both UHF separate and the VHF post. Have the DB8e connected to the power module which is connected to the CM 3414 amp. Saw a YouTube video where a guy said he used just the outdoor box without power. Tried that, too. No results. Was hoping this would help boost some of my weaker signals. Is this a defective preamp? Pretty sure I'm connected properly |
Since I'm trying to be greedy, I called Antennas Direct for their suggestions on optimizing my weaker signals.
They sell this preamp I may try it and order a combiner from them if the one I have coming from Amazon doesn't work It will only take a few minutes to find out later this afternoon when it gets here |
I may have gloated too soon.
I lost some stations completely and others went from normal to weak. The only thing that changed was weather. It got cloudier. And, possibly, I attached the extra cable to two masts to get it up out of the way. |
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Thanks for that input, jrgagne99.
The highs and lows of cutting the cord My area is black on that map. It says nil signal. What does this mean? |
The problem with the RCA preamp could be that it is hooked up wrong, or it could be a bad preamp, or both. This is the hookup for the DB8e and the RCA preamp; it should work better than without the preamp.
DB8e > preamp > long coax > grounding block > power inserter > TV If the signals are too weak for splitting: DB8e > preamp > long coax > grounding block > power inserter > 3414 > TVs To combine the CM for VHF only and the DB8e for UHF with no amplification for the CM: Code:
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There are some voltage tests you can make on the RCA preamp:
http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...6&d=1512417272 http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...7&d=1512417300 When the preamp is connected, the voltage will drop. It is necessary to use a T-adapter to have access to the center conductor to measure the voltage when the preamp is connected: http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...9&d=1511636090 http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...8&d=1511635684 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 |
Thanks for that info, rabbit and jrgagne.
I've never used a grounding block. Yesterday, I had the DB8e with the combined switch on. Today, I had it set to separate. In both cases, it completely killed the signal. Here's how I tried it. DB8e---.RCA--->LONG COAX--->POWER--->3414--->TV. The DB8e is now 40' from the CM |
That should have worked if the DB8e was connected to the UHF input of the RCA.
Try it without the 3414. Time to make some voltage measurements. |
I'll be returning the RCA and trying a different one.
That was the only one in my town. I don't have a lot of choices here. I have Ace Hardware, Busy Beaver lumber, and Walmart. Next town, which is a lot bigger and 30 miles away, doesn't have much more. That includes Lowes, Home Depot, bigger Walmart, Target. Too bad Radio Shack doesn't exist anymore. I looked for some kind of electronics store but none around. There is a Best Buy 45 miles away in another direction. How could the signal degrade that much in such a short time? Only 4-5 hours. |
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I'll check out Walmart.com.
Usually, it takes a long time I was looking at the PA18 UHF/VHF Antenna Pre-Amplifier Kit from Antennas Direct. I can get a 10% discount which makes it $2 more than Wally. WM has a pretty big selection which includes Channel Master and Winegard. Which do you guys recommend? Some have a 30 db gain, some 16, some variable. It doesn't sound like a high gain always gives a better signal |
Just got this delivered and hooked up.
Linear 2512 ChannelPlus DC & IR Passing 2-Way Splitter/Combiner Got 13 channels VHF and 20 UHF. (I almost always get 13 VHF stations). It seems to work better than the previous splitter I was using. Try another preamp and I expect to be as good as I can get. I may try and raise the antenna a little to see if that helps. |
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As an example, I spent well over 40 hours mapping out all of the available rooftop area on my house for reception quality/quantity over a period of about 16 months. I found one particular location and mast height where I was able to get 80% of the channels I wanted, but was still missing one key channel. I was just about ready to call it "good enough" when I was able to borrow a big man-lift and fish around for reception up in some nearby trees using my antennas and a handheld portable TV. I was finally able to find a nice sweet-spot up in a big pine tree, where I get all 6 signals (19 channels) with 100% reliability. I used good-quality infrastructure (pre-amps, cables, etc.) to pipe the signal to my house, but the key to success for me was the location. Quote:
Remember, if there's no water in the well, a bigger bucket (more amplification) won't help. You need to dig deeper (get a bigger antenna) or dig the well in a different spot (move the antenna). Or something like that. |
Good analogies, jrgagne99.
Checking the link. Is my CM 3414 4 port amplifier considered a splitter? And a question on connectors. Do I count as a connector each connection to the antenna and combiner box as well as the connection inside to the splitter/combiner and the connection to the CM amp/splitter. Or does this mean only if I connect 2 pieces of coax? Thank you PS: How do you check signal strength in various locations? |
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An intermediate approach is a little homemade widget using a Winegard camper/RV signal strength meter (Winegard RFL-332 SensarPro Black TV Signal Strength Meter), which requires 12V power (eight AA batteries) and a DC-blocker because it is designed for use with amplified Winegard RV antennas. Read R. Ross's review of the SensarPro on Amazon for instructions on the build. I built one and it works pretty well. |
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The amplifier has a gain of 15 dB, but the splitter section has a loss of 7 dB per outlet, so the net gain for each outlet is 8 dB. https://www.channelmaster.com/Antenn..._p/cm-3414.htm Quote:
This is from my 19" Samsung TV: http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...9&d=1512499825 I also like the Diagnostics Screen in my Sony TV. It gives relative signal strength and SNR. Screen shots from my Sony KDL22L5000: Bad signal with picture freeze, SNR below 15 dB, and uncorrected errors: http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...6&d=1438807158 Good Signal http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...7&d=1438807179 Signal level meters are expensive. http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1440873529 I like to make antenna measurements, so I'm willing to spend the money. I bought the Sadelco 719E meter on the left when I retired from the government in 1988; it was $600. My wife gave me the Sadelco DisplayMax 800 meter on the right as a present; it was $1000. Since that time, I have bought several meters on eBay, but I don't bid any more than I am willing to lose if a return isn't possible. This one was $75 including shipping: http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...8&d=1512491679 |
Thanks for that info, Rabbit73.
Always good and I learn. (Slowly) Just ordered the PA18 UHF/VHF Antenna Pre-Amplifier Kit from Antennas Direct. Should get here late Thursday so I'm status quo until then. Reception is poor today; possibly due to rain. |
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Your goal should be for reliable reception of your strongest channels in all kinds of weather. |
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