Help choosing an outside antenna
 

Here is the link to my TV signal analysis result.
http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wr...8e030c56910db8

We are switching from FIOS to OTA and need to choose an antenna. Please send me any advice as to the brand and model.

I plan to mount it outside about 10 ft above the ground. Since the land slopes down in the direction of the broadcast towers there are no interferences except two trees about 200 yards away.
We are only interested in the channels at 285 deg except possibly the one at 259 deg. All of the towers are on Mt Wilson in the LA area which as you can see is 60 miles away. The towers are about 3,300 ft higher than we are and the loss due to 60 miles of curvature is 2,300 ft so I think the signal will be looking down and should miss the trees (but I don't really know about these things, just the wonder of searching the internet).
Our wiring is coax built into the house. I plan to use the splitter in the wall box for a cable to each of three TVs at 80 ft (seldom used and mostly for Wi-Fi streaming), 30 ft and 40 ft (used all the time). I prefer not to use an amplifier so the question is should I try it once I get the antenna or is it clear that I need one?
Thanks for your help and to the folks making this possible. I appreciate your efforts and time.

Greetings Paul,

On paper, your plot looks wonderful. Before I offer any thoughts how intensively do the trees block the path to Mt. Wilson?

I'd be inclined to suggest a Antennas Direct Clearstream 2V with the VHF add on kit. You'll only need high-VHF and UHF. The lone low-band VHF KRVD-LP reports as being off the air, so at this point it's a non-factor.

Since you have a good amount of signal on paper, a preamp wouldn't be something I would invest in. Instead, I might install a 4 port channel master distribution amplifier model 3414. This would be your splitter and amplifier. A distribution amplifier can be needed for long runs servicing multiple TVs. it's main job is to offset cabling loss of signal due to long runs or several splits.

Using a generic non-amplified splitter, you may be able to get away with it. The thing to look for is if one, perhaps two of your TVs have intermittent or non-reception of some signals. TV tuners are not all created equal and if through the splits the signal is weakened enough, certain signals can be lost or be erratic.

The Clearstream 2V ought to do very well pointed to magnetic 265 or so.

Cheers.

Thank you StephanieS,
The trees are a scraggly pine and a pretty full but shorter walnut. They are far enough away that they don't seem to be in the way, but that can be deceiving.
I'll look into the 2V with kit, thanks.

One thing I haven't figured out is how to power the splitter/ amp. The easy place to put the splitter is outside in the wall box but there's no power there. I'll have to pull wires from the panel nearby or make a penetration through the wall and the back of the box. Then plug in inside and run the cable through the hole to the splitter. It seems clugey but maybe that's how everyone does it.

I understand the cabling losses and thanks for the diagnostic tip. I really appreciate your help.

Remote power the distribution amp. It's easy, all you need is the accessory power inserter.

Don't use the same coax for OTA signals and WiFi streaming.
Try it without the CM3414 distribution amp first, on one set, then add a 4-wqy splitter. That will tell you if you need the amp.

If you need the amp it can be remotely powered something like this, which was for another situation:

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1436753291

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...1&d=1436753291

http://forum.tvfool.com/attachment.p...7&d=1436753605

The coax shield should be grounded with a grounding block that is connected to the house electrical system ground with 10 gauge copper wire for electrical safety and to reject interference. For further compliance with the electrical code (NEC), the mast should also be grounded in a similar manner to drain any buildup of static charge, but the system will not survive a direct strike.

You have some strong local FM signals that might be a problem. Add an FM filter. See attachment 4 for an approx. report. You can run your own report here with your exact address:
http://www.fmfool.com/

FM reports don't link like TVFOOL reports.

Hi AD tech,
Thanks for the power inserter idea, that's exactly the gadget needed. Do you have an antenna suggestion other than the Clearstream 2V? I like to compare options.
Thank you

Hi Rabbit73,
Thanks for your input, from reading you other posts, I was hoping to hear from you.

The streaming will be from a Roku connected wirelessly with the OTA via coax to a different input on the TV.

Most important to me is the antenna and I would like to hear your suggestion. I'll investigate the amplifier if needed but your figures show exactly how to solve my power problem. Thanks and you deserve lots of credit for the aid you give to all of us.

Thank you for your kind words; you make my day.
1. Antennas Direct C2V
2. Winegard HD7694P
3. RCA ANT 751

plus FM filter
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...-FM-88-/33-341
https://www.antennasdirect.com/store...on_filter.html

No preamp

Only use the 3414 distribution amp if necessary; try 4-way splitter first.