Specific quandry.....WLIW from NJ.....have met end of my expertise.....

[OberGeiss]

Hi All, Mike at Solid Signal turned me on this site. Thanks in advance for all input (pun intended). I am a lifelong tinkerer and can't resist an electronics challenge....so here we go with pertinent data:


http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d267ec0748f8974

Channel Master 3042 amplifier (22db gain, 54-862 mHz, 2 output with return path)
Toner XGVS-3B, balanced 3 way splitter
Antennae Direct 91XG (Yagi configuration), rooftop, approx 24' height, asphalt shingled roof

Location=40.69494,-74.28257

LG, two HD ready sets
Dynex set, but has lackluster tuner thus utilizing outboard Dish Network HD tuner

1st concern: cabling from the yagi is RG-59 75 ohm, with a run of approx 65'.
Cabling from where it all meets in the home is a mixture of RG 59 and Perfect Vision brand RG-6 (to the Dynex). Should I immediately upgrade so that all cabling is RG-6?

2nd concern: should I swap out this Channel Master amp for some other amp or perhaps switch to a pre amp?

Re: WLIW, occasionally I will get a momentary signal strength indication of about 50%, then it seems as if the Dish Network tuner rejects the signal completely. The LG sets (both cabled from the splitter with RG-59) do not even discriminate WLIW, 21.1, et seq, and I have to enter manually. Still no WLIW reception on either LG set.

Also, have tried a straight run from antenna to the Dynex with outboard Dish Network tuner and that does not yield a signal either. Currently, I am using single output with a 2' run of RG-6 to the Toner splitter, then to the three sets as described above.

I would give my right *&^ to get WLIW, in a manner of speaking....any suggestions???? Thanks very much in advance and I appreciate your fielding the question.

VTY,
David aka OberGeiss of Union NJ
:D

[GroundUrMast]

If the connectors are in good condition, replacing the RG-59 with RG-6 will buy you 1-2 dB per 100'... which is not a great amount. Still, if there is any reason to suspect the integrity of a piece of coax, replace it.

Not all installations need an amplifier. If you did not care about WLIW, and were satisfied with the long list of signals from NYC, I'd advise against an amplifier all together. For installations that need amplification, very close to zero need more than one amplifier.

In this case, the best chance of seeing WLIW would be with the 91XG equipped with an Antennas Direct CPA-19. Remove all other amplification from the system. The long list of powerful signals does not make me hopeful though. Any amount of inter-modulation-distortion in the amp or tuner will bury the weak WLIW signal.

[GroundUrMast]

Also, insert an FM trap between the antenna and preamp.

[OberGeiss]

Thanks so much. I see that the CPA-19 is a pre-amp, one mast mounted piece of hardware and then power supply and likely addn hardware and power supply inside. I see also that it is described as appropriate for Clearstream products...I happen to have a C-2 (that's what I replaced with the Yagi style).

Which brings me to another possibility.....any decent chance of receiving the PBS affiliate in Philadephia WHYY, either via rotator or separate antenna (with combiner or some such...)

Again, many thanks.

David

[OberGeiss]

Thanks, I have lots of FM stations nearby..that did not even occur to me.
This trap is variable...will I need some additional expertise to modulate correctly or should I search for a static fm trap?
Winegard FT7600

Very great of you to help me!!!!!!
David

[OberGeiss]

I've read some addn threads and couple of other things come to mind for my application here in Union NJ.

The mast is mounted to the chimney at the west end of the home.
The power from the pole comes in to this end of the home as well, with the entry point near the peak where the chimney is located.

Also tacked underneath the roof joists is metal backed foil insulation, not fiberglass but approx 1/4" laminated metal foil with a thin insulating layer in between.

Mounting the mast to the east end of the home would distance the antenna from incoming power lines and, since most of signal comes from the east, could this not abate any problem generated by the metal foil tacked to the underside of the roof joists.

The home is also clad in alum siding.

Thanks.

David

[GroundUrMast]

Thanks so much. I see that the CPA-19 is a pre-amp, one mast mounted piece of hardware and then power supply and likely addn hardware and power supply inside. I see also that it is described as appropriate for Clearstream products...I happen to have a C-2 (that's what I replaced with the Yagi style).

Which brings me to another possibility.....any decent chance of receiving the PBS affiliate in Philadephia WHYY, either via rotator or separate antenna (with combiner or some such...)

Again, many thanks.

David
I've recommended the CPA-19 because it has the ability to handle strong signal levels better than most other preamplifiers. By placing the amplifier at the antenna, you avoid the signal degradation of the down-lead so you'll get higher quality signal into and out of the preamp when compared to a DA. The CPA-19 also adds one or two dB less noise than it's best competitor. While I'm hopeful, I can't guaranty replacing the CM3042 with the CPA-19 will make WLIW reliable. It's the best idea I've got at this point.

WHYY will take some doing. I'm thinking a stagger-stacked pair of Antennacraft Y-10713 high-VHF Yagis coupled with 450Ω twin-lead combining/matching harness and a CPA-19 preamp. http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=1024

[GroundUrMast]

I'd use a fixed FM trap.

The metal in your roof is a source of reflection but if you are mounted 5' or more above the roof, it's not going to de-tune the antenna enough to be of great concern. You can experiment with mounting height (4" to 6" increments) to see if there is a 'sweet spot'. Higher is usually better.

You attic on the other hand is a poor location for an antenna.

[Electron]

For a one antenna solution. I recommend a Winegard HD7084 All channel antenna aimed at about 50 degree magnetic compass. All channel antennas receive , VHF low band channels 2 thru 6 , VHF high band channels 7 thru 13 , UHF channels 14 thru 69. There is one tv station that is transmitting on digital channel 2. WKOB channel 2 that has this digital sub channel , http://www.hottvchannel.com.

[Electron]

If the HD7084P does not do the complete job of reception , I think it will. Then use the 91XG with a Antennas Direct CPA-19 preamp aimed at about 94 degree magnetic compass as a dedicated antenna for the reception of only WLIW-DT (UHF Tv Channel 21) PBS. Contact , http://www.tinlee.com for a UHF 21 band pass filter that allows UHF channel 21 to pass and rejects all other channels. Separate coax wiring will be used for 91XG antenna system and HD7084P antenna system. The two antenna systems will not be connected together on to one coax. The two separate antenna systems coaxes will go to the location/s of the tv or tv's. A Radio Shack #15-1968 remote control A/B antenna switch will be at location of the tv/s , the separate coaxes will connect to the inputs of the A/B switch and output of the A/B switch will connect to the tv. That means a separate splitter and coax wiring. Or if it is only one tv for the WLIW option then run the one coax of the 91XG preamp antenna system to the one tv and use a A/B switch at the one tv.

[OberGeiss]

Many thanks Gents!
Great options.
If I elect to utilize the existing Yagi (with CPA-19 and Tinlee 21 band pass filter) for WLIW with appropriate A/B switching, is there a sound reason to mount that array to one end of the house and have an all channel antenna (HD7084P) mounted at the other, or should they simply be stacked on the same mast?

I think I'll be placing an order for addn parts Monday AM!!!!!

[OberGeiss]

Thanks Gents...great thinking and appreciate your expertise!

I'm wondering if the existing Yagi array (with new additions of CPA-19 and band pass filter) ought to be mounted to one end of home and an all channel array (Winegard as recommended) should be mounted at the other end of the home.

Having the Yagi at one end of the home (East) will make a significantly shorter cable run. Or can the two separate arrays (separately cabled all the way to the A/B) simply be stacked on the same mast?

I confess knowing nothing about the high VHF antenna suggested by GroundUrMast, and plan to look into carefully this AM before deciding upon a plan.

Again, many thanks.

David

PS...I assume that using the band pass filter for WLIW 21 obviates the need for amy FM trap?

[Electron]

Why would mounting the 91XG on the east end of the house make for a shorter cable run?? Where does the coax enter the house on the east end or west end?? And is the 91XG mounted above the roof now?? All antenna/s must be mounted above the roof not in the attic. The FM Radio Trap is to reduce or eleminate possible FM interference , the UHF channel 21 band pass is is to allow the reception of UHF channel 21 only , keeps All other signals from interfering with UHF 21.

[OberGeiss]

Yagi now set atop chimney west end and cable also enters west end (foundation).
If I set up the second antenna on the east end, I would drill a new opening for cable at the east end and that's closer to my current DA and balance splitter.

Plan now is to re-cable the Yagi with new RG-6 and connectors, using the specified pre amp.
If that does not improve WLIW, will add FM trap between ant and pre. If that does not work will try the band pass filter for 21. If that works, will add appropriate A/B switching and get all channel as addn array so I can grab that low VHF you pointed out together with everything else (but for 21 WLIW which would stay via the Yagi). Many thanks and I will def report back!!!!! Happy Easter.
David

[Electron]

Well Ok good luck on the adventure.

[GroundUrMast]

Yagi now set atop chimney west end and cable also enters west end (foundation).
If I set up the second antenna on the east end, I would drill a new opening for cable at the east end and that's closer to my current DA and balance splitter.

Plan now is to re-cable the Yagi with new RG-6 and connectors, using the specified pre amp.
If that does not improve WLIW, will add FM trap between ant and pre. If that does not work will try the band pass filter for 21. If that works, will add appropriate A/B switching and get all channel as addn array so I can grab that low VHF you pointed out together with everything else (but for 21 WLIW which would stay via the Yagi). Many thanks and I will def report back!!!!! Happy Easter.
David

Two antennas on a 10' mast would be a good option, but if you want to mount as you've described, that's fine too.

Your step by step approach is both logical and economical. If you opt for a CH-21 bandpass filter, the FM trap would be redundant though you could experiment with it left in the system. Regardless, either or both filters need to be ahead of the amplifier.

I agree with @Electron, a basic install in your situation calls for an all channel antenna. Your pursuit of WLIW and or WHYY make this more complex than some of your neighbors would consider... but I think you have a fair to good chance of getting one or both of the distant signals.

It sounds like you've decided to set the WHYY project aside for now.

[OberGeiss]

Gentleman!
Well Solid Signal got me the parts and sure enough the CPA-19 and re-cabling has done it.......getting WLIW, and a few other new ones, clear as ever....signal strength per meter on the outboard Dish Network HD tuner is a solid 69.

The RG 59 had a few suspect spots as well so I understand how keeping an eye on cabling, and using good cable, is important.

So, here's the next question. Assume I add a strictly VHF (low and high).....can I combine it with the Yagi UHF/CPA-19 rig and, if so, what would be the optimal way to do that taking into account that I have a balanced Toner 3 way splitter just beyond the CPA-19 signal injector.

I never understood how a dedicated pre-ap differs from a DA......fun hobby and I seriously appreciate your incisive help!!!!

Best,
David

PS...one set I have not yet re-cabled....also an LG. The LG in the kitchen that has been re-cabled is fine with WLIW and everything else...but the living room LG (same vintage...a few years ago so tuners should be identical) is still cabled with the old RG-59, about a run of 20 feet from the splitter. Will this weekend re-cable that set as well with the Perfect Vision RG-6....if that does not do the trick will start looking at the splitter for problems.....

[Electron]

The HD7084P is the one antenna solution.

[OberGeiss]

I'm concerned that swapping out the XG 91 for the HD7084P (pointed at 50 deg) might cause me to lose WLIW. Is combining an all VHF with my Yagi set up ill advised? Thank you!

Also, getting some occasional pixelation and drop out on WLIW...nothing substantial but wondering if I should still add an FM trap to my Yagi set up? In that the XG 91 is described as an UHF antenna only, would adding an FM trap serve a good purpose here?

Thanks,
David

[OberGeiss]

Does anyone know of a source of plans for building one's own low/high VHF antenna.....I searched the forum and could not find anything. JUst toying with the idea of using a separate carbon fiber mast and some wiring and parts I have laying about........my idea is to have an integrated short mast and VHF ant. Any ideas as to where I might consult for some basic design parameters?
Thanks!

[GroundUrMast]

Here's a quick and simple Yagi design tool: http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=1636

This thread, http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=2865 deals with Rhombic designs which are going to be quite large when cut for the VHF band... But the 4NEC2 software used to evaluate the design is flexible and available for free, http://home.ict.nl/~arivoors/Home.htm. If you have an understanding of antenna theory, and a willingness to work through the learning curve, you can do a great deal with the software.

[OberGeiss]

Thanks...that K7 MEM site seems very useful and starightforward.
Fascinating stuff.
I just need low band VHF for the moment and seems as if I can model something which should work pretty well. Appreciated!

[MisterMe]

Does anyone know of a source of plans for building one's own low/high VHF antenna.....I searched the forum and could not find anything. JUst toying with the idea of using a separate carbon fiber mast and some wiring and parts I have laying about........my idea is to have an integrated short mast and VHF ant. Any ideas as to where I might consult for some basic design parameters?
Thanks!A low/high VHF antenna is just a VHF-only antenna. There are several standard types of VHF-only antenna. The best such antenna is probably log-periodic. The log-periodic antenna design allows you to effectively "dial-in" the gain that you want. Be warned. Because it must cover the long-wavelength end of the TV frequencies (54-216 MHz), a full-spectrum VHF log-periodic TV antenna will be rather large.

You will need computer assistance to build the antenna. The RF Toolbox (http://www.blackcatsystems.com/software/rftoolbox.html) application from Black Cat Systems will give you the dimensions for a number of different types of antennas of interest to HAMs including the log-periodic type. The application is not free, but it can be used without paying the fee.

Having said all that, I have to wonder if you have really thought this out. Building an antenna is not the issue. Building a VHF-only antenna is. It is not 1957 anymore. Even before the digital transition, the majority of TV broadcasts were in the UHF band, not the VHF band. Today, there are metropolitan areas were there are no VHF transmissions at all. In others, all of the VHF transmissions are low-power. A VHF-only antenna makes sense if you want signals received from the best possible VHF-only antenna to be combined with signals from the best possible UHF-only antenna via UVSJ.

Now to your mast. There is a recent thread about using fiberglass masts. Like fiberglass, the rigidity of carbon fiber is provided by the hardened resin that holds the fibers in place. The fiber reinforces the hardened resin. There are several reasons that I recommend against a mast made of carbon fiber. They are they same reasons that I recommend against fiberglass:

Carbon fiber has no track record as a mast material. A galvanized or painted steel tube or tower will stand for decades with no appreciable loss of rigidity. Without maintenance, the resin holding the fibers together will deteriorate. Examine the body of an old Corvette. Examine a fiberglass boat that has not been maintained.
The resin that binds carbon fiber is non-conducting. This makes it impossible to ground your mast.

It might be helpful if you would explain what you are trying to accomplish by building your own VHF-only antenna. As for the carbon fiber mast, forget about it.

[OberGeiss]

Thanks MisterMe.....I have UHF covered already and yes it's critical here in 07083. There is one group of low vhf signals from NYC (virtual 42.1, et seq) broadcasting on RF 2. My thought is to essentially construct a set of rabbit ears for roof top mounting, splice it into my system with an Antenna Direct VHF/UHF combiner and give it a whirl.

I'm about 17 miles from where this signal is broadcasted and I can occasionally pull it in with my XG-91, pre-amped wit CPA 19. But I am after more of a rock solid signal. Likely, it's only a matter of time before this channel, assuming it survives, will go to some RF frequency in the UHF band, but until then, just want to play around a bit and see what I can grab.

On the mast issue, I need to read up admittedly on mast grounding. Currently I have the RG-6 cabling from the XG 91 grounded with a two part connector (to the earth, just prior to where the cabling enters the home). That's not grounding the mast I suppose so again I am admittedly in need of some reading on that.......

Best,
David

[MisterMe]

With all of the channels available to you in the New York-Philadelphia area, you should not decide on an antenna based on one channel. WKOB broadcasts on RF-02. It is likely to continue to broadcast on RF-02 in perpetuity. However, between the Philadelphia and New York metropolitan areas, virtually every VHF channel is used. In the case of RF-12, it is used twice--by WPXU-LD (RF-12) and by WHYY-DT (RF-12). RF-09 and RF-06 are each used by two stations. Having neighboring stations on the same RF-channel is not limited to the VHF band. RF-43 is used by two stations.

With the proper antenna aimed properly, you may receive every station listed on your TV Fool Radar plot. In the case of WKOB, this should be one of your easiest stations to receive. A non-amplified set of rabbit ears should do the trick. You can pick-up one during a quick trip to your nearest drug store.

Antenna design is fascinating. Learning this skill will teach you a lot about practical physics and electrical engineering. However, as a means to pull-in WKOB, it is a waste of time. I recommend that you set as a goal to receive every channel on your TV Fool Radar plot.

Whether you buy your antenna or build your own, your task is directed by the actual channels that you are trying to receive and the environment in which you will receive them:

The data entry page (http://www.tvfool.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29) for your TV Fool Radar (http://www.tvfool.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29) plot is found here (http://www.tvfool.com/index.php?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29). Enter your exact address. For the height of your antenna, enter 20 ft or more if you have a choice. If you are limited for some reason, then enter that height. It might be useful to explain the antenna height constraint if you have one.
Create a new thread in the Help with Reception (http://forum.tvfool.com/forumdisplay.php?f=7) area of this forum. Post a link to the resulting web page that displays your TV Fool Radar plot in your original post of the new thread. Include information about your residence such as whether it is a single family dwelling, high-rise apartment building, etc. If there are obstructions that may interfere with your reception such as trees around your home or tall buildings, describe them and the location relative to your residence. If you are considering an indoor antenna, then describe the location within your residence and the nature of the materials used to construct your residence.

If you still want to design your own antenna, then examine the software that has been recommended to you. You may also find a plethora of books on the subject at the ARRL bookstore (http://www.arrl.org/shop/Antennas/).

[GroundUrMast]

I don't want to discourage you from trying your hand at antenna construction. But I should point out that Antennacraft offers the CS600 for $29.99, which offers coverage of all VHF channels and the Y526 for $32.99, which covers real channels 2 through 6.

Re. grounding:

Grounding the mast and coax shield are prudent and relatively inexpensive steps that limit the buildup of static-electricity which can damage the tuner. When done correctly, grounding can also reduce the risk caused by a nearby lighting strike.

http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901

Grounding in a basic system is a two step process:

1) Connect a #10 gauge copper wire to the antenna mast (Presuming the mast is metallic. If not, the ground wire should connect to the metallic boom of the antenna.) A bronze ground clamp such as the Halex #36020 is well suited for 1.25" round mast. Run the wire directly to the electrical service ground. Avoid sharp bends in the wire. (Often you can use a 'split-bolt' electrical connector (http://www.homedepot.com/buy/electrical/electrical-tools-accessories/blackburn/6-solid-to-8-solid-2pack-split-bolt-connector-copper-98586.html) to clamp the #10 wire to the existing ground wire close to the ground rod outside the building. If possible, avoid running the new ground wire inside the building, energy from static or electrical storms is best directed to ground before it has any path into the building. The wire can be bare or insulated, your choice.)

2) Run the coax from the antenna to a location close to the electrical service ground. Install a ground block (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I5610E/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000BPEZKK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1C90NDN0N2CS08266D7Q) and with another peice of #10 wire, connect it to the electrical service ground at the same point you connected the mast ground.

I don't recommend short-cuts such as driving a new ground rod that is not connected to the existing electrical service ground. An isolated ground rod often has a high resistance that provides very limited ground connection. The goal is to connect to the same ground system that protects the rest of the home.

Surge protectors located inside outlet strips at the TV, computer or similar devises are worth consideration. A surge protector with a high joule rating is able to absorb more fault energy than a unit with a lower joule rating. Some surge protection units include phone jacks and F-connectors to enable protection of a phone line, coax cable and the power cable(s). However, in the case of an outdoor mounted antenna, this type of protection should not be considered a 'first-line of defense'.

[OberGeiss]

Thanks Groundrurmast....greatly appreciated.
Will get it all properly grounded at the same time I put up the VHF antenna.
The you mention.....how can one beat that?
Do you think with an approx 60 run of RG6 to a 3 way balanced splitter, I will need to pre-amplify (given how close I am to NYC (07083)?

Also if that ant needs to pre ampified like my Yagi UHF, do I need to cable it separately (running a separate power injector) and then combine just prior to my indoor basement splitter?

Mant thanks!

[MisterMe]

Antenna advice is properly based on your exact address rather than your ZIP Code. If your ZIP Code accurately represents your signal environment, then you do not need a pre-amp. If you are using an amplified UHF antenna, then I would say that you have the wrong UHF antenna. GroundUrMast recommended a good economy full-band VHF-only antenna in the CS600. This preserves your amplified UHF antenna. I recommend that you replace the amplified UHF antenna with the AntennaCraft 5884 (http://www.antennacraft.com/Antennas/AntennasAllChannel.html) for $42.99. This is a full-spectrum (2-69) economy VHF/UHF antenna.

[GroundUrMast]

I doubt you'll need any amplification for reception of the local signals from the ESB. At the highest UHF frequencies, RG-6 loss is less than 6.5 dB/100'. The loss at lower frequencies is even less. If you use a preamp attempting to make WLIW stable, the power insertion block belongs indoors, between the splitter and antenna.

As others have pointed out, one all channel antenna would be the choice of most of your neighbors.

Most 3-way splitters have one output port that has half the loss of the other two. Use the lowest loss port on the longest distribution run.

Because this thread is related to your overall reception situation, I've taken the liberty to merge both this and your original 'Help With Reception' thread.

Cheers

[Rumplestiltskin]

I live in Ridgewood, NJ 07450 Until recently I was able to receive WLIW with my roof antenna (on a rotor). Now there is absolutely no WLIW 21 signal. Any thoughts?

[OberGeiss]

I have had some instances of complete drop out (like this past weekend one evening). Next morning all was back in stunning HD.
It's the best OTA content in the NYC area by far.

Best,
David

PS, have you by chance re-scanned or checked your cabling, connectors?

[Rumplestiltskin]

<SNIP> PS, have you by chance re-scanned or checked your cabling, connectors?

Yep, I re-scanned and checked my cabling, connectors...
:(

Maybe I'll have them refund my membership pledge?
When I checked the coverage area, linked from this TV Fool site, my location showed up as very weak. I don't know how often that information is updated but I was getting a STRONG signal a while back. As far as I know there is no new construction blocking the signal and my reception on all other channels is still the same. I have contacted WLIW via their web site, if someone knows an email for their engineers that might result in better information.

[Rumplestiltskin]

I Solved MY Problem With WLIW Reception !

My almost 2 year old twin grandchildren like to push buttons and turn knobs!
My rotor was repositioned by them!:)

[OberGeiss]

Glad to hear that. Interested to know what other market you are pulling in via the rotor in your neck of the NJ wood!

[Rumplestiltskin]

What I Receive From Zip 07450-4505

This list of 57 stations does not include over 10 stations that had no programs as I was going through the reception.

My antenna is tuned for 13.1 so that weak signals from other stations require either me or my two year old grand children to adjust the rotor.

I use FIOS to watch U of M sports, 99% of my tv time is from the antenna on my roof.


WXTV-DT 68.2
WFUT-DT 68.1
KCBN 63.9 (AUDIO ONLY)
WDNJ 63.8 (AUDIO ONLY)
ALIENTO 63.7
AZTECA 63.6
NDTTV 63.5
SINOVSN 63.4
CGNTV 63.3
WMBCDT 63.1
NJTV-AV 50.3 (AUDIO ONLY)
NJTV-HD 50.1
SOI 47.3
EXITOS 47.2
WNJU-HD 47.1
WKOB-LD 42.6
WKOB-LD 42.5
WIZEBUY 42.4
HOT 42.3
DAYSTAR 42.2
TELOS 42.1
WFUT-DT 41.2
WXTV-DT 41.1
WNYN-4 39.4 (WEAK SIGNAL WOULD HAVE TO ROTATE ANTENNA)
FOX 5 38.4
CCTV4 32.2
CCTVNE 32.1 (WEAK SIGNAL WOULD HAVE TO ROTATE ANTENNA)
IONLIFE 31.3
QUBO 31.2
ION 31.1
WNYE2 25.2
WNYE1 25.1
ICNTV 24.3
ICN CH 24.2
WASA 24.1
WORLD 21.3
CREATE 21.2
WLIW-SD 21.1
V-ME 13.3
KIDS 13.2
WNET-HD 13.1
ANTENNA 11.4
THISTV 11.3
ANTENNA 11.2
WPIX11 11.1
BOUNCE 9.3
WWOR-TV 9.2
WWOR-TV 9.1
LIVEWELL 7.3
LIVEWELL 7.2
WABC-DT 7.1
WNYW 5.2
WNYW 5.1
NONSTOP 4.2
WNBC 4.1
CBSNY+ 2.2
WCBS H-D 2.1