Cut the cord with Dish Network, need advice please

[TigersFan]

Hello All,
I got tired of paying $118/mo. for the 3 channels that I actually watch, so I cancelled my service with dish network. I've been reading this forum for a couple of days now, and I'm fascinated with the whole idea and anxious to see what kind of results I can get! I'm hoping I can get stations from 2-3 different cities: Chicago is 60 mi. west across Lake Michigan, Grand Rapids is 60 mi. N.E. South Bend, In. is 30 mi. south. I hooked up rabbit ears and can get about 8-12 stations from South Bend. In the old analog days a person could get stations from all 3 cities if you turned the antenna. I really want wxmi 17 in Grand Rapids so I can watch Lions football. The Chicago stations are mostly vhf and not as important to me. (would be nice though) I read a suggestion on another post that advised an Antennas Direct DB8E + Antennacraft Y10713 + RCA TVPRAMP1R preamplifier and split the aim.Would this work in my situation?

Thanks in Advance.

Here's my report:

http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3de1c6db2dfd8861

[TigersFan]

Anyone? Thanks!

[GroundUrMast]

The combination of an Antennas Direct DB8E + Antennacraft Y10713 + RCA TVPRAMP1R preamplifier would give you a chance, albeit small, at WXMI reception. (In addition to weak signal levels, you are facing interference from other stations operating on the same channel.) It would also be a very capable system for going after signals beyond your local market.

[TigersFan]

Thanks for the reply. I'm debating whether to use a tripod on the roof or a 1 1/2" pole that would pretty much be the same location, mounted to the house. Can the pole also be used as the ground or should I use a separate ground rod? I'm going to use the existing dish network wiring. Can I use the dish network solo node as a splitter or do I need a dedicated splitter?

Thanks so much for your help, I appreciate it!

[GroundUrMast]

Some folks are concerned about sealing the fasteners as they penetrate the roof. I have not had any trouble with mine. I simply use a good quality roofing product such as Henry #209 asphalt/rubber/mastic compound. I also install backing blocks on the attic side of the roof deck to ensure the lag bolts have some substantial wood to hold in.

However, gable brackets are stable and reliable. I've used them with success.

Which ever you choose, be sure you verify the proposed antenna location is able to produce reliable reception before you drill holes in your roof or siding.

Post #20 in this thread, http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901 is my generic summary re. grounding.

Connect the antenna system ground to the same grounding system that serves your electrical service. Preferably, at the electrical service ground rod(s).

If I add a ground rod, I use not less than #6 AWG copper to connect the new ground to the existing electrical service ground. This ensures a low resistance throughout my grounding system, which will hold voltage differences to a low level. I want the grounded parts of the antenna system to always be at the same voltage level that any other grounded device is. I may add to the existing grounding system, but I never build isolated grounding systems.

I would not rely on a lone ground rod as the sole means of grounding the antenna system. The resistance of a lone ground rod is often quite high. The last two I installed measured greater than 1000 ohms which is not a surprise given the sand and gravel they were driven into. That means that during a fault event that produces 1 amp of fault current through my rod into earth, more than 1000 volts difference will exist between the rod and the average surrounding earth. This is why I choose to run a heavy gauge wire from the added ground rod and the existing grounding system that serves my electrical service.