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decaffeine
28-Nov-2013, 2:05 PM
Hello, I have been reading the forum for months. I finally decided to get an account and ask you experts for some help.

I am currently using a homemade gray hoverman attic antenna with a homemade rotator and a winegard AP-8275 preamp. The reception WAS great. I put a radiant barrier in the attic and the quality of the signal has degraded significantly.

I would like to mount an outdoor antenna on the chimney. I would like some advice on what to get. The cable run from the chimney to a splitter would be about 25 feet and then about 20 feet each to 2 rooms, and 30 feet to the 3rd room. It would be extremely rare to have more than one television on at the same time at my home.

There is a row of trees on the North side of my house belonging to my neighbor. They are all about 35feet high. The house is for sale so maybe my future neighbor will trim them but for now, I can’t do anything about them. I really don’t want to try to get my antenna higher than the trees.
Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

12 Feet: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d46ae42836dd01c

25 Feet: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d46ae6c393d3042

40 Feet: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d46aef4ee8b60c7

decaffeine
28-Nov-2013, 3:08 PM
I apologize if this is a double post. I submitted a post over an hour ago and it didn't show. Does a moderator have to approve it before it shows?

Hello, I have been reading the forum for months. I finally decided to get an account and ask you experts for some help.

I am currently using a homemade gray hoverman attic antenna with a homemade rotator and a winegard AP-8275 preamp. The reception WAS great. I put a radiant barrier in the attic and the quality of the signal has degraded significantly.

I would like to mount an outdoor antenna on the chimney. I would like some advice on what to get. The cable run from the chimney to a splitter would be about 25 feet and then about 20 feet each to 2 rooms, and 30 feet to the 3rd room. It would be extremely rare to have more than one television on at the same time at my home.

There is a row of trees on the North side of my house belonging to my neighbor. They are all about 35feet high. The house is for sale so maybe my future neighbor will trim them but for now, I can’t do anything about them. I really don’t want to try to get my antenna higher than the trees.
Thank you in advance for your suggestions.

12 Feet: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d46ae42836dd01c

25 Feet: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d46ae6c393d3042

40 Feet: http://www.tvfool.com/?option=com_wrapper&Itemid=29&q=id%3d46aef4ee8b60c7

teleview
28-Nov-2013, 10:18 PM
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The signal strengths are strong at your location.

Above the Peak of the Roof in such a manner that the roof and building are not , obstructing , impeding , blocking , reception in the directions of , West , North West , North , North East , East , South East.

Aim a ANT751 antenna at about 0 degree magnetic compass direction.

Here is how to aim antennas , www.kyes.com/antenna/pointing/pointing.html

Use a Real and Actual magnetic compass to aim antenna.

A antenna system amplifier is not required.

Stereocraig
29-Nov-2013, 10:52 AM
I'm all for outdoor mounting, but do not believe in mounting on, or anywhere near a chimney, or it's contaminants.

teleview
29-Nov-2013, 1:31 PM
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Can also install a , www.antennacraft.net , HBU11 antenna.

Here are some chimney antenna mounts.

www.ronard.com/ychim.html
Measure around the chimney and use a , ronard 2212 , ronard 2215 , ronard 2224 .

Buy the ronard antenna mounts at , www.solidsignal.com , or buy from , www.ronard.com .

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 1:34 PM
The second time I posted, I saw the message that a moderator must approve flash for about 1 second on my screen. I missed that the first time. I do have a lensatic compass that I will use when doing the install.


Thanks for the advice teleview. I like how small that antenna you recommended is. I've done some comparison shopping for price and found some saying ANT751R. Is that the same antenna?

Stereocraig, I live in Florida. My fireplace is functional but does not get used. I'm planning on mounting 12 feet above the chimney which has a diffuser, so even if it was to get used, would have no likelihood of actually doing anything to the antenna.

teleview
29-Nov-2013, 1:48 PM
The ANT751 and ANT751R are the same.

Read my post about the HBU11.

And the link for chimney antenna mounts.

Here are some places to buy antennas and etc. .

www.solidsignal.com

www.amazon.com

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Top Rail , fence pipe , is long , and works good to get antenna up high.

The Big box stores such as Home Depot and Lowes and etc. have Top Rail fence pipe.

tomfoolery
29-Nov-2013, 2:03 PM
I've done some comparison shopping for price and found some saying ANT751R. Is that the same antenna?

I believe the "R" version includes the J-pole mount, which you don't need if chimney mounting. Used to cost more, too, as you would expect, but now I can't seem to find the site that sold with and without J-pole mount. If I were you, I'd just find the lowest price (don't forget tax and shipping) and if you get the J-pole and don't need it, toss it into storage in case you need it some day. But it's the same antenna either way.

Here's SolidSignal's listing, without the J-pole. http://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=ant751&d=rca-ant751-1080-hdtv-outdoor-antenna-(ant751)&sku=044476064524

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 2:05 PM
Teleview,

That HBU11 is certainly a lot cheaper than the ANT751. Is it just as good as the ANT751 in performance and longevitity? I am definitely willing to buy the more expensive antenna if it is worth it.

That is the chimney mount I was looking at getting. I like that it has a positive stop.

teleview
29-Nov-2013, 3:09 PM
The ANT751 and ANT751R = Resvised.

The revised version is retuned for a little better performance for the reduced number of channels of the UHF channels.

The UHF channels are now 14 thru 51.

We're 14 thru 69.

However for all pratical pouporses , it's splitting hairs as a improvement in reception ability.

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Performance of the HBU11 is a little better then the ANT751.

Because of the Bowtie UHF reception element.
And has more active VHF high band elements.

However the performance improvement of the HBU11 , With Strong Local Signal Strengths , as compared to straight UHF reception elements , is also very close to , splitting hairs.

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In a Weak signal strength reception situation the Bowtie type UHF reception element is better at receiving.

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Longevitity of both antennas will be about the same.

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 3:42 PM
It sounds like the HBU11 is the better choice. I'm going to order that one. I'll probably order a new 3 way splitter while I'm at it. Going to go measure the chimney right now for that mount!

Thanks Teleview. I'll give you an update on my reception when I get it all done.

teleview
29-Nov-2013, 6:46 PM
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Outside , use coax that has the Compression type coax connectors on the ends of the coax , not the crimp type connectors.

After all is connected and working correctly ,

To make double sure that weather/water does not get into outside connections , wrap with , www.coaxseal.com .

After all is working correctly and reception is good , can also InCase the matching transformer (balun) in coax seal to keep water out of the balun.

The coax can be fed up through the bottom of the antenna mast pipe such as the Top Rail fence pipe ,
And out the top of the pipe and then connected to the antenna with the balun.

With the coax inside the mast pipe , the coax is not swinging in the wind.

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 7:01 PM
That is some good advice Teleview,

I have quad shield cable, compression connectors, and the proper tools to crimp them. That coax seal tape looks like some good stuff but I will probably use up the stuff I have. I have tons of silicone F4 tape and a big bottle of liquid tape.

I was looking into grounding. I know how to put in a grounding rod and run the wire but not sure how it connects to the antenna. Does it only go to the shield of the cable, or should I connect it to the mast too?

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 7:16 PM
I just had another idea. It would be easier to hook up the ground to an existing ground wire in a gang box that is in the attic. Can I do that instead of putting in a ground rod?

teleview
29-Nov-2013, 7:20 PM
Home Depot and Lowes has all manner of Grounding hardware and connections and also has Copper Alloy wire that is very strong and long lasting is made for the purpose of grounding.

A Coax Ground Block can be installed at the antenna / antenna mounting and ground the coax and antenna mounting , with coax ground block installed on the antenna mounting.

Is best to run the ground wire to the electric service area at the the building and connect to the ground rod wire or actual ground rod.

However it is your choice to install a separate ground rod or use a separate ground rod that is already in place.

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 7:31 PM
From the chimney to the electric service area would be a heckuva long run. I got the cerrowire brand grounding wire but not enough to go to the service ground. I really want to avoid that route if at all possible just due to the distance I would have to go and that there isn't too many options for running it besides all the way around the outside behind the gutter.

GroundUrMast
29-Nov-2013, 7:42 PM
I simply use a grounding clamp on the antenna mast, then run a #10 AWG copper wire to the electrical service ground. Then I route the coax from the antenna, outside the building, to a point colse to the electrical service ground. There, I install a coax grounding block, which is connected to the electrical service ground via a short piece of #10 AWG copper wire.

I avoid adding a ground rod if possible. If I do add a ground rod, I run #6 AWG copper between the new rod and the existing electrical service ground. The earth can't be counted on as a low resistance conductor, the #6 AWG 'bond' ensures that the 'antenna ground' and the rest of the house wiring ground are the same voltage even if a fault is present.

http://forum.tvfool.com/showthread.php?t=901

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 9:23 PM
Hi GroundUrMast,
Your answer, which I believe is 100% correct (especially with that username and associated photo), pains me greatly. My service ground could not be further away from where I want to put the antenna. It is going to be a PITA.

GroundUrMast
29-Nov-2013, 9:47 PM
Is there any 'left-in' cable from a cable company install or satellite system install? If so, there's a good chance there's a grounding block already in place...

I don't want to be discouraging... But I also can't encourage corner cutting that leaves you vulnerable to safety hazards.

decaffeine
29-Nov-2013, 10:27 PM
The house is a very long ranch style house. The front door opens to the east. The chimney is on the northwest end of the house.

I have cable internet. The grounding block for it is installed in a plastic box about 1 foot from my main CB panel outside on the south east corner of the house (garage) . The grounding rod is straight down from there.

I am thinking that at this point I should try to find another place to put the antenna.

teleview
29-Nov-2013, 11:46 PM
Amateur radio and CB'ers and radio and Tv stations and federal government and the milatary have been using separate ground rod and rods since the beginning of electromagnetic communications many years ago.

decaffeine
30-Nov-2013, 5:42 AM
I get both your points.

I'm pretty sure a separate ground rod would effectively reduce the chance of a lightning strike. I also found in the NEC where supplemental ground rods not bonded are allowed in some instances.

On that note, I thought about it and the shield of the coax goes to my 3 televisions. That shield is grounded to my household electrical ground. I am guessing that creates a secondary path to ground that may or may not become the path of least resistance for some of the circuits in the house. That might prevent the plug in surge protectors from working properly.

I'm conflicted and plan to do a little more research before going a particular route.

GroundUrMast
30-Nov-2013, 6:10 AM
Amateur radio and CB'ers and radio and Tv stations and federal government and the milatary have been using separate ground rod and rods since the beginning of electromagnetic communications many years ago. That doesn't mean their system is safe in the event some source of fault current comes in contact with the system that is supposedly grounded. An isolated radio/antenna ground system, separate from the power ground sets up the operator to be hurt or killed if the antenna ground system is forced to a high voltage relative to the power ground during a fault condition. I'm grateful the majority of the people that installed isolated grounds suffered no harm... that doesn't change the fact that they could have had a safer installation, in some cases, cheaper as well.

I'm pretty sure a separate ground rod would effectively reduce the chance of a lightning strike.The purpose of grounding is not to reduce the chance of a lighting strike. It's to reduce the possibility that dangerous voltages could appear on the chassis of equipment if a lightning strike or other fault current source comes in contact with your electrical system.

I also found in the NEC where supplemental ground rods not bonded are allowed in some instances. Can you cite the chapter and section? I'm always willing to learn more on the subject.

...the shield of the coax goes to my 3 televisions. That shield is grounded to my household electrical ground.In the unlikely event that some electrical fault occurs, do you want that current flowing through your TV set(s)? I prefer to connect the mast and coax grounding conductors to the electrical service ground so that the path of least resistance is known, and known to be capable of handling a large amount of current with little voltage drop.

decaffeine
30-Nov-2013, 7:51 AM
Hi GroundUrMast,

I do believe the purpose of grounding includes reducing the chances of a lightning strike, limiting the voltage during a lightning strike or other fault, getting rid of static buildup, and stabilizing voltage. Lightning strikes may not be the primary reason the service is grounded, but I'm pretty sure it is the primary reason an antenna mast is grounded.

That last paragraph I wrote was agreeing with you. I want the path of least resistance to continue to be the primary electrode, not passing through my house and devices.

I do believe I misinterpreted the NEC code and you got it right. I was looking at 250.54. Where they state "shall not be required to comply with the electrode bonding requirements", I now think it means that not all bonded electrodes have to meet the requirements of an effective ground.

GroundUrMast
30-Nov-2013, 8:37 AM
No worries. Perhaps I was needlessly forceful while re-enforcing the point. If so, my bad.

If you want to follow the NEC, focus on article 810. It will point back to the relevant sections of article 250 and others.

teleview
30-Nov-2013, 1:38 PM
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The issue of grounding and lightning is/are issues that are filled and running over with fear and suspicion and tales and misinformation and lies.

I have witnessed the Legal Certified Experts go to blows over it.

It Quickly becomes an issue that no one is capable of thinking clearly about.

GroundUrMast
30-Nov-2013, 6:41 PM
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The issue of grounding and lightning is/are issues that are filled and running over with fear and suspicion and tales and misinformation and lies.

I have witnessed the Legal Certified Experts go to blows over it.

It Quickly becomes an issue that no one is capable of thinking clearly about.
Rather that making a broad statement, implying that everyone but you is engaged in "...misinformation and lies.", I think it would be far more informative for you to state your position... I don't have any idea what that is... Unless it's simply, 'no one should talk about this subject.'

When someone asks 'how to ground their antenna system', are you proposing that we should:

A - Keep silent.
B - Tell them, 'Don't bother'.
C - Advise, "Refuse to ground your antenna system as a protest against 'the man'"
D - Say or imply that 'One method or practice is no better than another.'

My position is pretty clear, I hope;

A - It's best to answer when asked.
B - The benefit is worth some effort and expense.
C - Take reasonable steps to protect life and property.
D - There are ways to 'ground' an antenna system that give an illusion of safety but can be dangerous under specific conditions. It's better (and often less expensive) to do the job right the first time. Following NEC article 810 is a good guide for improving the safety of an antenna system.

So, we've heard your complaints about other people discussing grounding... What's your position regarding grounding an OTA TV RX-only antenna system?

decaffeine
30-Nov-2013, 11:18 PM
I appreciate the advice I received from both of you (Teleview and GroundUrMast).

I have changed my plan to something more feasible. I decided not to mount the antenna to the chimney. I went to Lowes and Home Depot today. The grounding wire alone would cost me $240 to make the run. I will instead mount the antenna on the south side of the house gable.

I noticed that the grounding rod that the cable company installed is only connected to their coax and not to the mains that is only a foot away from their plastic box.

Thank you guys for helping me choose an antenna. Sorry that the ground war (get it hehe) seems to be taking over the thread.

With that said, I ran into radio shack today. They had a HBU22 but no 11 in the store. I almost got it just because it would have been convenient but decided to hold off for an opinion. Otherwise, I will be ordering the 11 Monday.

GroundUrMast
30-Nov-2013, 11:53 PM
... The grounding wire alone would cost me $240 to make the run.Certainly not an insignificant factor.

...the ground war (get it hehe) seems to be taking over the thread. My apologies. It's challenge to strike a balance between respecting you and your thread, allowing for differing opinions and taking on a obvious safety issue responsibly.

I noticed that the grounding rod that the cable company installed is only connected to their coax and not to the mains that is only a foot away from their plastic box.Sadly, some of the people who should know better either don't, or don't care.